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!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!I'm doing a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I'll conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I'll also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see tested in the follow up video.Thank youCheers J
@Mrtheiam I don't think the Tesla turbine is practical for my application. Tesla turbines are great and spin at very high RPM but require a custom alternator that will turn the high rpm into usable current. Instead I want to use a standard 150w magnet motor as a generator and either a simple pelton wheel as the turbine or cylinder, crank and fly wheel for maximum torque. The steam design I have in mind acts more like a water gun than actual steam but is powered by steam. All will make sense once I've finished the prototype. There will be several variations once the first is completed. Cheers J
Are you thinking of building a Tesla turbine?
@Dan Watt the machine measures in Hz which is the fuel pumping speed. Cheers J
consumption at different Hz? What!?
@GeoffBob77 quite possibly the best thing I’ve ever read on CHclip!!
I fitted these on boats and lorries for years, I'm a boat builder now so still deal with them and if set up correctly they last forever👍First thing mate you need to swap that exhaust around so its not all exiting facing directly down as you generate extra heat in the underplate and if left on constantly for days the burner will be running maybe 5deg over what it should and using more fuel and the bend you cant have it so water and unburnt diesel stores in it or it will have start-up issues. Route the exhaust slightly downwards all the way from the unit so have it come out and down slightly then where it goes outside put your 90 bend sideways and facing downwards then have the exhaust aimed out at a slight dangle downwards so no water or unburnt fuel can store up anywhere on the pipe. Secondly you should fit the heat hose to the front as it brings the heat away from the burner nozzle and in turn saves fuel as its then burning at a perfect 163-167deg and 14:1 on the fuel. The best modification you can make for performance is to fit rigid type fuel lines like you get on the boats. They do cheap copy kits that the fuel line is nearly rigid and fits into rubber fuel hose and is clamped together. These ensure the fueling is absolutely accurate as there is no flex or expanding action happening when the pump is on its press stroke, the burner itself will be quieter and the fuel pump will last a lot longer with rigid type fuel hose🙏What never to do > fit filters over the intake. Put too many bends in the exhaust or burner intake. Extend the wiring without doing the maths relating to wire resistance and if possible always use it on a 12v or 24v DC as mains power can sometimes have power cuts or large spikes that flip breakers... if that happens your heater is toast as it shuts down hard with no shut down sequence, this burns the internal pcb and internal wiring. The genuine ones can take about 5-6 hard shut downs before you need to replace certain parts of the electrics. Also do some homework at what height and angle the pump likes to be at as these all in ones are known for bad fuel lines and pumps facing the wrong direction. To quieten the pump down you can get the pink rubber cover thing for it and mount it so it's not touching anything. Never buy the garbage large thin tanks they all leak and the connector is a nightmare to snug up properly. If using a 5 gallon drum be sure to fit the blue lid on your current tank to it as it needs to breathe.
@Graham Number7 yeah I'm meaning the water won't store directly in the 90 per say unless you've bent it so its going uphill again. It's if you have two of them or even a two lesser bends and the section between them where its maybe not at a steep enough angle that the corrugated part of the exhaust just holds in the moisture in there first, that eventually turns to the goo with the diesel fumes and general carbon build up.. then you get a half blockage before you know it your heater sounds like someone stuck a whoopey cushion on the end of the exhaust. Failed start ups and a smoke show is where it leads next.
@Big duphus AJ confused. Any 90degree has a point to collect. So why not go out at 90+ degrees or visually from the bottom something between 90 and 180 (which would be a continuation of the south facing exit pipe. I think the design could be much better by using the exhaust heat as a secondary fan to gather some of that heat before the gasses leave as much cooler
@Vic Blizzard yes youl need to either get the ambient pick up (controller unit on most of them) away from the unit to the point the heat from the unit isn't effecting it. Or you can buy an afterburner or copy afterburner type controller unit then have an external ambient temp and humidity probe that has a good length of cable so you can run the probe to somewhere that represents where you will be sitting/sleeping better, this way the unit will be far more micro managed on the efficiency side and youl be able to set perimeters and your own temperature ramp and if you wanted it to fully shutdown once a certain temp was reached and start up again when a lower temp threshold has triggered it to wake up. You can even have them run a maintaince heat for a bit to heat the surrounding area up enough that the walls are holding some heat, then they will ramp down and shut down and just monitor the entire situation themselves and act accordingly. The only problem with the more advanced controllers is the price, they cost almost as much as a unit. I do think the controller placement for you might solve that alone but something like an Afterburner definitely will solve your issues and more.
@Orkney 2020 on top of that other one I mentioned the newer ones sold by a mob called maXpeedingRods are the better made ones and they are in a newer style case, the newer cases are better made in general from what i can see but make sure you pay attention to the red rubber grommets on the 4 corners of the back of the burner that hold the burner away from the casing. If you don't fit these correctly the burner then walks about in the case to the point the only thing stopping it moving is the three long dowels that come off the fan body. The unit from the mob I just mentioned is sold as a 5kw or a 5.6kw I think but it's because the maximum on the controller is pre-progranmmed to 5.2hz and the fan speed is underspun a tad, I think its 100rpm or 200rpm lower than the max fan rpm of what the others sell that exact same unit and call it the "8kw version" That same 8kw the controller is set to the full RPM for the and fuelling goes to 5.5+ hz Easy to get the same performance basically and the Maxpeedingrods mob all the kit they sent with the "unit only" is top notch quality bar the absence of rigid tubing. They even send out the full service kit with the newer "Unit only" so you have absolutely everything even both types of removal tool for the mesh atomiser and a fitment tool. They also ship with the best base plate silicone gasket I've seen it's as good if not better than the genuine ones and they don't stink for long. Thought I'd add this to the thread while I'm on.
@Deacon Yates Hi mate, see your fuel lines and fittings do you know for sure that there is no seepage or any leaks? And is the tank in good condition? If you know all that checks out 100% have you tried running it with the fuel cap off of the difficult tank to see if its a breathing issue? If that all checks out I'd swap the pumps over to see if it's the pump strength. If that all checks out then I'd be looking into beefing up the fuel line between the tank to the pump to a outboard style fuel line as the flow from the tank to the pump doesn't need rigid tube and its common for the tube that fits over the tank outlet not to be able to supply enough flow so it effectively causes what I would describe as an area of vacuum behind the pump on each stroke. I've witnessed this with old tubing that had lost its strength and you could see it getting physically drawn in diameter wise just above the pump. It had the same issues you have in that it had a borderline permissible fuel run length and would act like the tank wasn't breathing, doing what an outboard motor does if the breather cap isn't fully opened and run for a bit then need a few starts. There are better stronger and even silent pumps now that will easily beat the one you have but you will need to spec the CC perfectly mate in order to get it to plug & play. I've seen runs twice as long as they should be still work because they've fitted an aglomorator or some sort of fuel storage device above the pump. Also, could you not move the pump about on the fuel run to a better suited medium distance that would allow your longer run to work? Keep the pump away from bends etc I suppose you already went through all this but just checking?
For the internal part of the exhaust pipe you may craft a custom heatsink with a 12V-PC-fan to convert even the excess exhaust heat to additional energy. This may make the machine even more efficient. Or you may craft your own pipe and lay it through the room. Does create some custom work but it will make it even cheaper over long distance and more efficient and environmentally friendly. AtL. a bit.
hmn, i wonder if it could be used on a fuel source such as hydrogen and also in the process of it being used, it creates it's own hydrogen effectively creating an nearly endless supply of hydrogen to power the entire house. and provide free electricity for life.there is another guy who does this, but his method is only while using solar power to create his hydrogen, he collects 3 months out of the year into his tanks and the rest is used through out the year, he's been off the grid for nearly 30 years on his hydrogen system and hasn't needed to pay a electric bill because he reuses that created hydrogen to power his house.
Few points to add.1. Use a car battery and a 5A plus charger. 2.Check the exhaust connection for dangerous CO leakage and CO monitor is a must.3. Keep a longer section of the exhaust pipe inside can help efficiency and put the metal plate in less thermal stress
@Big duphus AJ Yes but you may trip and fall exposing your face and body to dangerous acids that will melt your eyes almost as fast as 5% of 0.04% CO2 will make a bratty Swedish activist a sensation on the internet sheep Department.This old warning is up there with "smoke destroys computers" the frog got boiled alive" (apparently in actual test the frogs jumped out of the pan and didn't allow itself to ""cook slowly"" - probably a re-hash of old science with different frogs, who knows. If "safety conscious" people are commenting in a section involving heat, fuel, some budget goods, electricity and creativity, they should probably stay in the woke section of you Lube
@Matt Rider lol
@eksine Thanks for the links to learning something new.
@Matt Rider mate your car charges its battery as you sit inside a confined space and the heater intake is behind the battery, cars with the battery in the boot are inside and always charging. Boat batteries are inside and always charging when engines running and could go on. People have been charging batteries inside for decades with zero problems. Charging a car battery in a normal house size garage IS NOT dangerous and is exactly what the chargers are made for hence 240v plugs.
definitely don't use a car battery indoors lol, unless you want to breath in that hydrogen. Use an old xbox 360 or xbox one power supply.
My thoughts on the "filter", its meant to be outside so you don't create a draft and suck cold air into the room like you would if the intake is inside. The plastic mesh is just to stop spiders from going in the air intake and clogging it up with webs.
@Moe Man The "recirculating" option in a car is only for use with the A/C. It has no bearing on a fuel powered heater. If the unit is using interior heated air for combustion, it's sucking it in through every non air tight seam in the enclosed area. It's like when you run your clothes dryer... All the warm moist air that it's spewing outside of your house, is air you paid to heat ( in the winter). That air from inside your house, that the dryer spat out, leaked in from every seam that wasn't air tight.
@bobwoodsUK You've got that 100% wrong. Since the exhaust is fed to the outside, any air required for combustion ( if the intake is inside the enclosed area) therefore comes from inside the enclosed, heated area. Right? If the intake air is coming from inside the area, it got there from outside, hence, that would actually bring fresh air into the enclosed area. If the exhaust output is 1 cubic ft per minute, then, obviously, 1 cubic ft per minute will be sucked into the enclosed area. The main purpose of the intake air coming from outside the enclosed area, is to minimize unheated air ingress, and maximize efficiency. The secondary purpose is that if you did happen to have a basically air tight installation (unlikely), the exhaust wouldn't have to fight to be expelled from the heater. The only way you'd "suffocate the occupants" would be if the exhaust wasn't fed outside of the enclosed area.
@Dennis Ford That’s my point. Nor will your lungs 🤩
@bobwoodsUK in order for this to happen you would have to keep the air from being replaced by leaks. Engine is not going to run after half the air is pumped out
@bobwoodsUK but the gases intaken by the engine are exhausted outside and are replaced with outside air via drafts, there's no oxygen drawdown inside 😆
You might consider running an inlet air duct from outside. Cold air being pulled into the room from outside through small air gaps due to the negative pressure created by the heater pumping its exhaust to outside can really hurt your heating efficiency. Just make sure your air inlet is far away from any exhaust pipes. Even better, would be to setup a heat exchanger where the intake air is pre-warmed by the heater's exhaust.
I know the exhaust goes outside but I think it would be extremely wise to have a carbon monoxide alarm anywhere you’re using one of these, in case of exhaust leaks
The heater produces so much heat one is required to open their window(s) for comfort. Open windows provide plenty of fresh air and proper ventilation.
@Jeffrey Fay When diesel fuel is burned incompletely or when overloaded and over-fueled (rich mixture), diesel engines will produce high concentrations of CO. Diesels usually pollute the air with particulates and nitrogen oxides, not CO.
I would as well. However, it has less places to leak than a normal gas/oil/coal/wood/ect heater in your home. The entire thing is pretty much solid cast except for that small exhaust pipe. I'd guess this isn't any less safe than a chimney or any other co2 producing appliance.I also wonder just how efficient the burner is. I have propane heaters I can use inside unvented, for instance.
@DBA the production of CO by petrol cars has zero to do with the amount of lead content of the petrol. In the U.K. petrol cars have had to have catalytic converters since 1993
@K Welton we don't run our cars on leaded gasoline anymore, those have been banned since 96. I bet you'd die from boredom before exhaust poisoning with a modern gasoline engine car too unless the car has a straight pipe exhaust system...
@The Daily Bout incorrect. You are talking about two separate things. The combustion air (which becomes exhaust) and the heated air of this heater are not the same air, as there are two separate air circuits. This is a diesel fired heat exchanger/furnace. If the air from the room being heated were to be "pre-warmed", then the heater would reach it's pre-set temperature (thermostat) faster, meaning it would use less fuel. However, the combustion air being preheated will only increase pollution and hurt combustion efficiency, as the combustion will be incomplete unless the fuel rate is also decreased (which will of course produce lower btu/hour while using the same amount of electricity for the fan, thereby REDUCING EFFICIENCY from an electrical standpoint). Drawing fresh, COLD air from outside (the colder the better) will allow the combustion to be complete, as cold air is denser (just like in an engine, the combustion process of this heater is basically a gas turbine), so the denser the air, the more complete (efficient) the burn.
@Teth47 Good thing if air is being pulled in from outside; "Carbon monoxide (CO), a low molecular weight gas, is a ubiquitous environmental product of organic combustion, which is also produced endogenously in the body, as the byproduct of heme metabolism."
@Tech29X If air is being pulled out of the room, fresh air is coming in. Intake does not produce any gases. Human respiration does not produce CO. There is no safety issue with not having an external inlet. If the room is so well sealed that you'd actually run out of air, you breathing would cause the same problem and the issue is with the design of the room, not the heater.
@e. p. also it consume oxygen in the room👍How do you say carbon monoxide poisoning, CO?
also it consumes oxygen in the room , so...
I put my exhaust through a heat exchanger from an old boiler and heated hot water. Also, I directly fed the exhaust through a radiator. My thoughts were if you could use the waste heat from the exhaust, then it might make nearer 8kw. All I can say is it heated the workshop a lot more. Always think about condensation in the exhaust train!
@Reverend Al I went from "flex" exhaust to smooth pipe, less drag. Just two meters long and through a heat exchanger with a little 12VDC fan before exiting the Motor Home. The exhaust air coming our is MUCH cooler so I know I am pulling off what would have been lost heat inside the RV.
i always thought about making a engine powered steam train the exaust and engine block heats up a tank of water while both the steam and the engine itself moves the train you get the speed out of a engine and the power out of the steam engine
A thing to watch out for with trapping heat from the exhaust and the condensation that needs to run out is that the condensate is acidic and will eat away many metals over time.
a 40 foot exhaust tube w/fins, ran around your shop with the last foot going outside.
@Reverend Al Just a suggestion my friend. I have no experience with these heaters. Be lucky.
Just an important safety note. As it is set up right now, the exhaust is leaking carbon monoxide into your workshop. The metal heater outlet, hose clamped to the metal exhaust, is not creating a good seal. If your heater is not properly tuned (most of these are not, out of the box - ideally, they should be custom-tuned for your specific intake/exhaust setup and elevation) you will probably soon notice soot stains coming out of the gap as evidence of the leak.While the leak probably isn't huge, and these heaters normally don't produce huge amounts of CO, this can still kill you. These heaters can also produce huge amounts of CO if anything goes slightly wrong, for instance a partially blocked intake or exhaust, bad fuel, sooting up from age, the tune being wrong for any one of the heater's power settings, etc.The air intake should also be outside, facing the same direction as the exhaust, to minimize the effect of the wind on burn efficiency, which can cause sooting, leading to CO, etc. etc. I recommend sealing the exhaust connection with the highest temp automotive silicone you can find; I use Permatex 81878 and it has held up well, though I reseal it every couple years as the exhaust temps are right at the limit of what it can handle, and silicone will degrade with heat over time regardless.
@Rluijk75 yes, its better to be changing the air inside the wagon cab by using up that stale air, leave a window cracked open, easy, and all your farts actually help the combustion process…. honest 🙄😂
@Tommy Gröndahl i thought a 200+ deg exhaust pipe was a tad too close to a closed in ‘chamber’ with foam insulation that couldn’t be easily checked. better to cut a larger circular hole, fit a steel circular sleeve around 6” diameter then another pipe around the exhaust as a shield so theres a double air gap between inner exh pipe and insulation sleeve??
you could use car exhaust paste for pipe sealing at unit exit.
There's a dedicated exhaust sealant, just use that instead of silicone.
@Lord RW Why would I care? if the alarm goes off as soon as it is unsafe for me to be there for 8 hours a day I know it is unsafe to be there for 8 hours a day, dont I?At that point I might as well open the window and make sure I am not exposed to this for even one hour per day.
One thing must not be forgotten when you want to extract heat from the exhaust gas: if it cools down to 100 °C, the water vapor can condense and mix with the carbon dioxide to form carbonic acid. The condensation boiler is also created (the flue gas is cooled to 75-80°C), which is why it is made of acid-resistant material (preferably). If you still want to extract heat and do not want to install another heat exchanger, then the temperature of the flue gas must not go below 120°C under any circumstances.
Couple of suggestions from cold wintery Finland: Calculate the price comparison calculations via the thermal energy of diesel also. 350ml an hour is not 8kW - even at 100% effienciency. More like half of it. Also you have losses (exhaust, which you could utilize. Also consider taking air to burn from outside as now you are drawing cold air into the room for the unit to burn (this depends on your needs to ventilate but especially true if you have a ventilation system with heat re-capturing (heat exchanger between the hot-out and cold-in, like we have in the cold countries). Last thing is to insulate that gap under the sheet metal with some fire proof rock/glass wool. Now you have an unisulated spot there.... Or you could run the exhaust inside a long vent tube in and have your fresh air already preheated.
@Peter Betts No good advice. With these heaters you have to ventilate a lot and lose all the warmth you got out of your fuel.
@precinct 1 baltimore county residents You must be a brain surgeon.
It is 3.5kw, a litre of diesel contains around 10kw of energy.
@Rusty 911's and this is a real problem where you are trying to warm up a room at already low temperatures - condensation is a real problem. You've really got to exhaust to the outside with hydrocarbons.
@Anker Jørgensen It depends on what you call hot, 90% of combi boilers in the UK use balance flue which is pre heating the intake air. this is why they plume
If you want to add more energy in and less out (by the exhaust), one guy installed an aluminum tubing from a used electric baseboard . Dissipation of that heat was done inside before exhausting out. The longer the tube the lower the heat loss outside. David McLuckie made the calculation from exhaust (around 800 watts), so it is better to keep that heat in, but make sure connections are tight (aka CO risk...)
I was just thinking this. So much heat was being lost and if you can somehow harness the Heat from the exhaust, it would be great… Maybe hot water heater with a coil??
This is the first of your videos I’ve ever seen, and I stumbled across it completely randomly (the previous video I watched before this popped up, was about the Alaskan oil pipeline. Lol)Your level of interest in the product, your explanations, the information you provide, you pulling it apart to see what’s inside it, etc. has immediately earned you a sub. 👍🏻
Lol, the video i got after this was about the alaskan pipeline.
Yep! Same here! 😂
Same here! This is a great introduction to Joshua's channel. Subscribed.
Truckers been using these for years for their cab heater when they sleep and it also had a block heater circulating your coolant to your engine. You could always run a couple radiators with fans across the house and put the radiator hoses through the wall so you could heat your living room Den and also your bedrooms separate with their doors closed. You have to check the different kinds available. Google up some truck shows and start visiting them see what is on the market these days. Every major city has one Salt Lake Anaheim Dallas. BTW the reason red diesel is red is they just put a dye in it to turn your fuel filters red and they can see it in the tank at a Port of Entry. If they see red dye then you get a big fine for tax evasion. Because that's Road tax. The red diesel does not get Road tax.
Diesel#2 is regular diesel, Diesel#1 is cold weather diesel. Red Diesel is called dyed diesel or off-road diesel at the pump.
@Marc Behrmann it's the same in the US also. We call regular road fuel #1 diesel and off road/farm use is called #2 diesel which is dyed red. The only difference is the red dye and that you're paying a "road tax" on the #1.
In Germany it's two different things. The red stuff is named Heizöl what translates heating oil and you are allowed to use it in tractors on a Farm. The stuff in trucks is named Diesel like in USA it seems. Technically it's the same stuff only in red. Heizöl is 1,23€ per Liter(for 100l ) Diesel 1,74€ per Liter (19.12.22) 1gallon=3,75l
As a mechanic and a tool buff myself, I love how you have all those specialized tools for all these small fabrication jobs. Yeah those heaters are great.
@Magnus Magnusson i see a second heat exchanger for the water line or a heat recovery system to preheat the intake air. #damnthatsefficient
yeah.. they seem to work great and have loads of untapped heat being wasted through the short exhaust pipe there just going straight outside...
if you want to spend even less on heat there are a couple things you can do. 1 you can scavenge more heat from the exhaust before dumping it outside the wall. and 2 you can plumb the intake so it takes air from outside, because as it is since it's intaking air from inside and then exhausting it outside it must necessarily be sucking cold outside air into the workshop through what little gaps there are in the walls.
I have one similar in my van that i live in when working away from home. Its plumbed straight into my fuel tank, which obviously makes it a bit more expensive to run but when its sub zero outside and its toasty in the van its worth it.As a side note, look up the water heaters you can add to these, absolutely brilliant
Great video. I would say taking the intake filter/screen of is a mistake. It will make it less efficient faster. More dust to for ceramic slowing conduction from the burn chamber out to the fins.
I've had a spout with these heaters, and I like the method of installation. Achieving an adequate seal round the exhaust output is the biggest weak point, and potential for health hazard, but they are cheap! NOW as for powering them. You can buy a multi charging battery supply, or you could use an old computer transformer with 12v 5v and 3.3v outputs, yellow, red, and orange, respectively. In short, 12v battery power, phone charger/USB power, and single led voltage. Very stable and safe. Use connecting green wire to ground or black wire to switch the transformer on, disconnect, and reconnect to reset it (green wire) An average amps for each voltage output is about 20a. Full short circuit protection. Normally, when a component or PCB fails in the computer, this triggers this protection. However, if you fully remove it from the old PC, then you have a lovely projects' power supply. If you want to totally destroy one of these heaters, then see what happens if the supply voltage gets cut whilst in operation. Without the fans, these heaters surge up excessively with heat warping the internal block and will break down the seal between the burner and the air intake. In short, they will make your room seem like a steam train just travelled through it. Therefore, I would recommend a small battery backup capable of delivering 12v for a couple of amps via a delay relay that is triggered by the lack of voltage input. ( The delay only needs to be half a second to flick the display off and on). The heater will detect the heat and will run the fans for 5 mins or so until the heater has cooled itself down. In the event of a power failure, you will still be left with a functional heater as opposed to one that works but now leaks fumes into the room from the burner. Hope this helps prevent a sooty room and early onset of alzheimers or other dementia. 😀😃 I had the 8kw (HUGE😉) USB charger and mood lighting from the same transformer. The larger wattage transformers will run a 12v stereo or amp as well. Now, this makes more a person cave now than a shed!
Interesting idea, battery backup for battery backup. Muchissimas Gracias
Great vid. Here's a tip;If you made a longer exhaust pipe and had most of this pipe on the inside of your workshop before exiting, you'd get even more heat inside.
@Big duphus AJ All other stuff aside.. thanks for taking the time and trouble to reply, your insights are much appreciated.
@Big duphus AJ Another explanation of DIY, is Destroy It Yourself. Easy start is a band aid that masks an underlying problem.
@Big duphus AJ I would suppose that my install isn't typical. i built a 1000 sq ft quonset hut garage (15 ft ceiling) and then threw up a 220 sq ft insulated workshop inside it. . I didn't bother with an outside air supply, as I just punched the exhaust through the wall into the main garage (Selkirk 4 inch pipe for insulation). It piddles out so little exhaust, compared to the size of the unheated area, that you can't even smell it running when you enter the garage. "recirculating " is an odd term.. As mine draws combustion air from inside the workshop, it's not recirculated, it's fresh into the workshop from the rest of the garage.( the workshop is 220 sq ft, with an 8 ft ceiling, R 12 on the walls, R 19 on the ceiling, and R4 on the floor, full vapour barrier). I realize that that affects the thermal efficiency, as the combusted exhaust equals the ingress of cold air, but.. as I only heat it when I'm using the workshop, it's not that big a deal. 5 KV unit, with it set at 2.5 Mhz, keeps the shop at 30 C over ambient temp. Maybe next year, I'll get off my ass and do the cold air intake. I took the secret handshake (1688) and dropped the MHZ to .8, but it just stank of unburned fuel. The factory settings seemed to actually be the best. About a six month old unit, with about a hundred hours on it.
@Chuck St.Amandanother annoying thing can be that all the hidden menus are different, they are different on the different versions of the cheapo controllers and again different on the genuine ones. Some of the cheap ones I find don't record voltage very well and they don't record the casing temp very well even if you refit the temp sensor on the top of the burner. It's a tricky thing to give out advice as far as exact numbers because of this I'm sure you know that already by messing about with it. Ambient makes a difference too even fueling wise id run slighltly rich if on outside air for intake or burner and transfer here where i live as it seems to keep the burner at the same temps even if the weather outside is fluctuating hard, it causes audiable differences when running them on leaner settings on outside air. Are you recirculating or inhaling outside air? Reason I ask is its hard for the machine to hold a good tune if its all over the place with wind getting blown in it etc. Gets exponentially harder to set them up in very difficult environments when they need to be inhaling everything from outside and on boats it gets really tricky if it's only got a designated area its allowed in and it's in the worst position on the entire hull. There's a ridiculous amount of stuff going on here on these machines regarding thermodynamics going on especially as it's an exchange heater. People make the assumption a hotter casing temp up at the 180+ means their machine is putting out more heat, that's not the case as you know because its basically a big hearsink so if all the heat is still in the burner above a certain level then you aren't benefitting from it as the air going over it isn't gathering enough of It. Or by the same token I could just slow my fan right down to achieve the target heat even when the machine is running like junk just to meet the target temp. In that case the boat would be freezing cold but the heater unit itself like a nuclear reactor. If the machine is bob on the money and burned in it will hold a good tune and will get away with running it leaner or richer than you otherwise would without to much extra noise/smell/start up attempts. I'm adamant AF though that they DO not burn that hot when new or after a full parts replace service. They need some time to settle then they hold a tune foreverEDIT: is the machine brand new mate or is it burnt in?
@Chuck St.Amand The target temp 167 would be for what to aim for when the machine is running mid to lower settings. A good machine for example will be way over that up at 5.5Hz but youl find that if you let the unit heat completely up then come down in Hz increments they tend to hold heat in them (as you said the fan automation will play a part in this by ramping to best accomodate holding the heat in) then there will be distinct drop offs in heat at certain Hz's. The 160-167 area you want to get the machine hovering there at the lower Hz settings so you have a wider spread of Hz where the machine will burn at that heat. Obviously on the lowest 1.6hz you're not going to make 160+ but dial the machine in so that distinct heat range can be achieved on lower Hz settings than it would normally do. See what you are doing keep doing it mate youl figure the exact capabilities of your machine then see a pattern for where the fan won't ramp up or down much and you can get way more heat out the thing just on the fueling adjustments. The problem is we're talking target temps here and to match them perfectly would take a hell of a well made machine and some fine tuning to do it, add to that the fact these cheaper machines are all different performance so its kind of hard to advise anyone on what exact settings they need. Try to get the machine to hold that 160-167 range for longer in reference to turning down the Hz and still maintaining that good heat. See the badly made machines they blow themselves out again on start up right at the end when the fan ramps to flat out. They do start on the second attempt but they sometimes let the smoke out the burner inlet so your boat/garage/lorry/shed gets gassed out before things gets even worse... as on the 2nd auto start attempt its exchange intake sucks all the thick smoke lingering around the back of the machine up and force feeds it into the air at 50mph. It causes proper headaches when that happens as its super obnoxious gas when it's been ran through the exchanger at speed. BTW one of our boys fixed a proper Eberspacher yesterday and it was after a failed DIY attempt by the boat owner. Guy had made multiple critical mistakes so I might do a write-up on here of that after I send this reply. Its something I've seen before many times but this guy had made them all at once and on top of that he'd pushed the main wiring harness to far into the shell beyond the stopper so the wiring harness was touching the back of the fan. This would have ended in a massive backfire the mistakes this guy made because when our guy opened it it was still flooded. These only usually flood a little and you can hear the tinging and crackling sounds if the machine eventually does start.. this guy was maybe one or two start attempts away from a sizable backfire and the rubber boot on the plug and the two rubber insert tabs either side of the burner that seal the wiring and the fuel line (metal one going into the burner core) blow clean out the things, then you need to vent the place for days as it's evil levels of heavy that comes out them and the smell lingers. This guy even admitted he'd ran easy start into the burner inlet to get it fired up, this is probably why the machine hadn't threw an instant 'Ignition failure' warning and shut down because he's somewhat got it going with the easy start and the plug barely working.
Great video: From a design point of view, wouldn't it be better to have the fuel tank underneath the burner in case of leaks.
Hello and thanks to everyone for the details on setting this thing up! First run, on a 18 square meters un-isolated and with old windows and doors with some cracks room, raised the temp 16 to 25 degrees in 7 hours, used around 0,2 liters of diesel per hour. 6-4 degrees C outside overnight. So overall it's good. Not 8kW, but it's ok. Still got to figure out the other controls for the "black" version controller.Cheers to all!Edit: I wonder if i can extend the 3 wires to the lcd display a few meters longer... what do you think?
I would wrap a copper or ss tuber around the exhaust with a simple circulation pump to a small radiator and get even more output from your heater. I did that for a rocket stove I put in my fireplace and I never had much to worry about heat for so much less fuel
You shouldn't discard the inlet pipe and filter. You should use the inlet pipe to supply fresh outside air to the combustion chamber. That way you won't be drawing in cold air into your shop to replace the air being drawn directly into the heater and exhausted to the outside. The filter on the inlet keeps out bugs, hair, and other debris from clogging up the heater.
@Joseph B I believe what you are describing as how it should work is exactly what David Parker was saying. The way it was set up in the\is video it was not completely isolated as the intake was indoors. It was effectively a pump sucking air from inside, burning, and then exhausting outside. Since it pumped air outside, David was pointing out that air must come in from somewhere to replace it as negative pressure is created indoors. Thus, cold air from outside will creep in.The way you described it, with I take and exhaust being completely isolated from the inside is the best idea and I believe that’s precisely what David was suggesting 🙂
It is provided to meet regulations . The filter is to prevent outside impurities to get in. I have one these in my minicampervan and chose to use indoor air for combustion (exhausted outside of course). The minimal amount of oxygen it consumes is negligible compared to mine. unless you are living in a 100% sealed environment should be fine
@Rune Øyvind Fløtre That doesn't apply. This heater can intake as much air (oxygen) as it wants. Unlike an engine that can only intake a fixed volume of air.
@Dave Parker burning a fuel, is a fuel air/o2 mix, taking burned gases and fuel, air is a gas, air/o2 is needed for combustion or you will have incomplete and loss. the higher the 02 content the higher more explosive the combustion will be.
@Dave Parker But air "outside" is inside the atmosphere.
First time I’ve seen your videos and I loved it!! You explain everything so well that it can make sense to a toddler! Lovely installation work putting that heater up too! I instantly subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your content.
Thank you so much Raj, your very kind. Lots more coming soon. Cheers J
I heard steam turbine to recharge the battery bank and immediately thought of the "conservation of energy" thing. Please heat the water with the exhaust heat and use that first. I've thought of doing a peltier regen on the exhaust side or making a long exhaust with aluminum fins and extracting the additional btu's from the diesel exhaust.
The steam generator sounds like a great idea and should work fine as there are similar camping heaters available with built-in heat to power systems for charging phones, lights and the like.
Those heat to power systems use a Thermal Electric Heat Pump, also known as a Peltier.
Great video - Thank you.Of course the caravan and boating world has been using diesel heaters of this sort of tech. for many, many, years. Folk might like to explore those products as well if they are thinking of getting something like this.My understanding is that waste oil from garages in the U.K. is mainly re-refined and re-used, not burned and your comment that the regulation banning burning it because they are not getting cash out of it is a cheap jibe. Those regulations were brought in to lower pollution levels.
I run a simple heater like this all winter on my homestead in the middle of nowhere. They're golden. Easy to tune up when needed and they produce such good dry heat. Important when you live in a van. 🤠
What exact model have you been using please ? Any link ? Thank you
Awesome review and commentary! Been thinking on what would be a good alternative to wood stove heat in my workshop and love this little machine idea. I'm gonna try one out.
Great in my caravan. Gives me about 1.5KW at second lowest setting, and 8 hours/ Litre of diesel. Diesel 1.74/lLor red diesel 99p/L.A great bit of kit, and on low, not much draw on my touring caravan batteries.I may incorporate one into my home too.But it's not a good idea to burn used engine oil unless you have at least centrifuge cleaned it. Some nasty chemicals will be emitted and it will clog up after a few hundred hours or less too, just a bad idea.
Bypass the exhaust into a radiator - would be fine to calculate the energy loss by taking air from outside🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋
I use this all the time. To keep it at 18 degrees it uses 1 inch on the 15 litre tank per day. It works out as £2 a day using fuel from the garage as opposed to red diesel. Very economical. Last Winter we paid £1200 in electricity. My VEVOR saved my life.
what did you use to power it?
Is that in a motorhome or a garage etc? What hz do you leave your heater on to use that amount of fuel? Thanks.
Very good to hear. cheers J
The cost of heating this year is sky high. My neighbour usually uses coal to power their boiler, last year it was £400 per ton, this year it is over £800 per ton. We are out in the countryside, so no natural gas. I use LPG for my central heating, the price of which is probably about 20% dearer this year than last year, which is not too bad when you consider just how much other fuels have increased. My workshop is in a big barn, so not really practical to heat it in the winter, but if I had a smaller space I would certainly consider one of these type of heaters, not too bad at all for the price.
I was very fortunate to get a portable diesel heater for £59 last year so I bought 4 of them , I use one in my garage, one in my shed workshop and the other 2 I have for spares just in case. I love them , both the workshop and garage have solar so I use AGM batterys to power them both.
Hi Joshua, new sub here. Just wondering what your thoughts are around extending the exhaust with a longer run, before exiting a space, with better quality materials, to make more efficient use of the heat derived from the exhaust? I know this was an experiment but just a thought for future installers. Thanks for the video. Look forward to the follow up.
I'm testing a 2m legth that is water cooled. video in production. cheers j
Several questions: What are the emissions like? Could you rig a heat exchange over exhaust, then route the output air to extract more heat?Any smells?Any CO getting into the room?Is your exhaust cutout dissipating enough heat to prevent fire at the exhaust port?
All those questions will be answered in the follow up video. Cheers J
Good Video! I would connect this heater with a temperature sensor so it runs for example when the teperature falls under 18°C and stops at 25°C. It would be nice to see how much fuel you need for 24h for this setting or a similar one.
im sure these were other places but i remember growing up with baseboard radiators in the southern us, making a pipe with heatsink material, running it along a baseboard, and running the exhaust through that would be extremely efficient. also, you could repurpose a pc power supply for this and it wouldnt need to be that high wattage. much of a pc power supply is 12v, and the specs are on the back. you could additionally use that power supply to power some pc fans and with some handy ductwork you could have an entire ducted heating system in your shop.
Finally no nonsense channel very straight forward breath of fresh air No gimmicks cheers
1 adjustment I would do is to have the fresh air line draw from outside. That way when you are in a confined space you are not taking the oxygen out of the room. This is common for wood/pellet stove installations.
Good video. I suspect why it's illegal to burn waste oil at home when in fact it's burned when commercially disposed of is that commercial disposal facilities are regulated for emissions (or at least are supposed to be). I'll bet a lot of people will be using these this year to heat their homes without permission because the economics is driving them to do it and they think it's worth the chance of getting caught as opposed to freezing.
This looks really interesting! Thanks for demonstrating it! One thing I would have a hard time with would be the noise that it makes. I would not want this machine in my living space. I might set it up in an adjacent room that I don't spend time in, like a utility room or something, and blow the heat into my living space from there. You've got a really intelligent crowd here! One of the smartest comment sections I've seen.
@The observer I believe the sensor is in the control unit which can easily be extended
I wonder if you could wire in an external thermostat to replace the internal one. It could give you more accurate control of the ambient temperature.
And yeah, the workmanship is pretty shoddy, but that doesn't bother me much. As long as the components are decent, I can fix up anything that needs it. Translates to a great price!
I had an old (new but never fitted) petrol Webasto Thermo Top C which I’ve just sold for enough to buy three of these. So I bought 2 - one for garage and one for workshop.I’m not sure if the kW rating is really that important to most people - most gas boilers in the UK are ridiculously over-rated for the size of house but hardly anyone complains, and calculating the heat-loss for a typical house is easy compared to a barn, shed, van or garage!I’m sure a propane tank pointed up the air intake would raise the kW rating, at least for a few minutes!Heat-recovery from the exhaust is on my to-to list. I was thinking of just buying an old hot water cylinder and fitting the exhaust to the coil!
An old timer's tip for the jagged fuel line hole you deburred:Cut a scrap or used length of fuel line to fit the perimeter of the hole. Lay it between two pieces of wood or metal & use a knife to split one side the full length of the fuel line.Slip the split fuel line over the rough edge of the hole. If the line is cut to length accurately, it will stay in place without adhesive. If needed use some contact adhesive to affix the re-purposed fuel line.Been using this technique for 50+ years without one failure. Works well in vibrating invironments, too. (Machinery, automotive, marine, etc)Hope this helps someone.
If the exhaust pipe is 300 C, you could easily run it through a heat exchanger a recover some heat for hot water or pre heating water for a steam engine - or just have another air to air heater going so you're using the exhaust heat, put a small pc fan on it to get flow.
@Wallace Grommet the real answer is casting the exhaust pipe in aircrete or something that works like fire brick.mass heaters are the way to go for the most economical source of heating.
@Wallace Grommet Also if you use a much bigger diameter of the exhaust pipe? Or would condensing of exhaust gas become a problem?
@Dan Rob air has density and takes more pressure the longer the pipe . It would probably cause unnecessary wear for the fan and overheat the heater unless you upgrade the fan.
I wouldn't do that before making sure how the exhaust system is set up. Generally messing with temperatures on the exhaust side and changing back pressure by adding tubing isn't good when you don't exactly understand what the consequences are. Don't know if they have any catalyst in there or reactor, but if so, temperatures have to be the same. Same goes for eventual preheating of air and fuel by the exhaust, wich will be impacted by such changes.
That might overheat the intake side of the unit, and cook the electronic control module. These Chinese knock off units are not as robust as the German ones, like Espar and Webasto. Way, way cheaper, though!
Got one of these. The tank above the burner is bloody dangerous in my opinion. I had a diesel leak from the hose going from the tank, there was diesel everywhere and a fog of white diesel smoke coming through the air ducts because the leaked diesel had been pulled in to the air inlet. There was also a lot of diesel around the exhaust, dripping on to it and smoking something fierce. I've since put the tank and the pump outside the casing, as well as added a filter. It's now much safer, and I can fill up the tank while the heater is running without worrying about spilling. It manages around 5KW I'd say, and it burns clean and is relatively quiet. With the modifications, I am now quite happy with it.
Could the exhaust be longer and routed around the room to take advantage of the heat it omits?
Thanks! I was absolutely amazed with this tutorial!!. I myself being a welder/fabrication teacher. I am currently teaching my children how important or is to have imagination to be a welder.. I found your tutorial amazing and I could not help but support a fellow welder/fabricator.. I wish you nothing but success, wealth and happiness in the future, you are an inspiration to many who are able to see what your doing and the fact that you are potentially helping those who do not have the money to heat their homes in the winter. God Bless you!
@Bobby Damig your very Kind Bobby. I'll do my best to continue helping any way I can. God bless. Cheers J
@Joshua De Lisle your very welcome I look forward to seeing more of your videos. I was very impressed with your ability to make things so easily and use your imagination and apply it to different configurations.. you are a very intelligent person who is capable of providing people with the right info to help the less fortunate.. thats something I find amazingly useful.. good luck on your future endeavors and I wish you all the best.. keep doing what you do best.. God bless
Thank you so much Bobby for your support. Your very kind and it's much appreciated. I have lots more to bring soon. Including a welder review that is TIG, MIG, Stick, Flux core and plasma In one machine, so we'll see if it's any good and I'll do my best to demonstrate all the processes and my tips I've learned over the years. God you and your family also. All the very best. Cheers J
Is this essentially the same technology as the zippo hand warmers? But a beefed up version?
I've been using the exact heater for over 4 years now and it has worked flawlessly. I do however use Clear diesel as I found that the diesel fuel with dye in it tends to Coke up the glow plug which will either require cleaning or replacement, which is no big deal. By the way yes it does require a special socket to remove the glow plug which is also readily available at very little cost. I have three of these particular heaters one of which I use in the house which is mounted on a small inexpensive Harbor Freight welding cart. The welding cart holds the battery, the heater and a solar charge controller connected to a small solar panel which makes this a totally self-contained unit. One of the other units I have I use for a small hunting cabin, and the third I use to heat my garage. I highly recommend these to everyone I speak with and they are quite popular as well with my friends that have ice fishing shanties. I don't use mine 24 hours a day or when sleeping but I do use it all day long and with a full tank of fuel it will easily Heat my 700 square foot cabin using only about one tank every 2 days when set on some of the lower settings, " on two or three ". they're absolutely amazing and I highly recommend them to anyone! Just be sure to properly install the exhaust, that's the most critical item, plus I found the hose clamps they come with to be of very poor quality and I highly recommend that you replace the exhaust pipe one for a high quality all stainless heavy duty Marine type hose clamp and you'll have no issues with exhaust smell or exhaust leakage.
Red diesel is road diesel with a dye added. They are absolutely identical products in every way.
As soon as I saw the word "illegal" I knew I had to watch this! I love modifying technology that comes from China (but mainly for safety and reliability reasons), Ditto CO level checks. Apparently these can run on used engine oil?
Currently running mine in used cooking oil. Follow up video coming up soon. Cheers J
Absolutely brilliant review, tear down and install, Thanks so much!
I fitted one of the 8kw chinese heaters in my kitchen, just to warm my wife's desk rather than putting the heating on. It's that good I still haven't put my heating on this year. Turns out it drys my clothes really well and makes my house smell like lenor... I tried using an extended 3m exhaust to make use of the heat. I found it clogged up with sut because the heater wasn't on flat out. I then became a CHclip mechanic over night and totally stripped it down and cleaned the combustion chamber out, it now runs hotter than ever. This deisel heater is that cheap to run and maintain that I bought 2 now and its that warm I can walk round in my wife's knickers even when it's snowing
Well done 👍 cheers J
It's a great video even if the spec wasn't 100% accurate. I was pleasantly surprised to see an ecoflow. I have been using one for years during power outages at my place and I love it. I am new to Diesel heaters though so this was a cool video to see if it's a good fit for me. This was a good video just to see how much money diesel heaters would cost and at $170 delivered + about 44 cents an hour based on prices in my area it seems like a pretty good option for someone who might lose power in the winter.
Some of these diesel heaters come with this green, flexible fuel line, which is fine from the tank to the pump, but the pump puts out such a small pressurized pulse that the green line expands and minimizes the quality of the analyzation in the commotion chamber. The smaller diameter, hard plastic tubing allows pressure to be maintained and cleaner combustion result.
What smaller inner diameter and what hard plastic? any air pressure or car fuel pipe?
Also the Mecanyl tubing is self sealing in case of a melt or burn through.
Watched your diesel heater video with great interest and was impressed with your methodology. However, when your calculations on energy used on the diesel aspect, you missed out the electrical power usage needed to run the unit. As I am totally "off grid" I am always on the lookout for new innovative ways of saving energy. Thanks for making this video; it was very entertaining and informative.
Thank you Geoff. It's 150w for 1 minute whilst the glow plug is in use. Then it's 40w continuous for the pump. Roughly 1p per hour on the grid. Cheers J
If you are doing a workshop install and looking for a cheap [free] 12v DC power supply capable of supplying the 8 amps this unit needs, then consider an old ATX power supply from a desktop PC.Typically they have 12A available. They are good quality meant to run for hours.The green wire is the on off switch. Connect it to black for on.The yellow wires are +12v. The black is the negative terminal. Use a few wires together to increase the conductor size.Cut off the rest of the wires. Insulate the ends to ensure no shorts and you have a 12vdc mains powered DC power supply.
More exhaust inside the building equals more heat, also nothing wrong with mixing your fuels to help prevent carbon buildup
If you used non-agricultural diesel so that its legal then what is the electricity calculations then?Great video. Enjoyable to watch.
Maybe someone noted this already but for electricity you use male for receiving and female for the live end. Simply because you otherwise have a risk of short-circuiting or accidentally applying a current to something.
One thing you might want to add, a fresh air intake for the internal combustion, otherwise it's pulling warmed air out of your shop.
not unlike floor model airconditioners with only one hose that blows hot air out, it's pulling cool air from your room
Good video. When I was living in my van I had solar power panels on the roof - two 100watt panels charging a 100AH battery. I ran a a 20 liter Alpicool fridge/cooler off the system without any problems. I was looking at these diesel heaters for my the next upgrade as I did have some cold nights in the van. I never pulled the trigger and bought one though because I eventually moved back to my home. I have 3 natural gas heat sources in my home - a millivolt wall unit, a millivolt fireplace, and a standard high efficiency furnace. The furnace requires electricity to operate whereas the millivolt units will run without house power. This way I don't have to worry about heat should the power go out - which it has many times where I live. Twice this resulted in broken and frozen pipes and thus the reason for the millivolt heat sources. If one is patient you can usually find the wall units of the fireplace units cheap on marketplace. New the fireplaces can be very costly, but used they can be had for a song it seems. I just bought a 20K BTU freestanding fireplace for $75 on Marketplace and it even included the double wall stove pipes. To buy all of this new would have run $3,000 USD.
I’ve got a 8kw in my extended cab pickup truck and it will absolutely cook you out of there! It’s nice getting into a completely toasty warm and melted off truck without even staring it. On a side note one thing I’ve heard through watching countless videos. If you run the exhaust into a 55 gallon steel drum and then run a exit pipe out the bottom of the steel drum you can near double your heating efficiency. I’ve wanted to buy another one of these for my garage and try that out.
I thought you could lengthen the exhaust pipe before it goes outside , that way you will use a lot of the 200 degree exhaust that is heating the pipe to warm the workshop.
If you make the exhaust pipe longer, you start increasing back pressure. This, at a certain point, would start to cause issues.
Problem is the exhaust can't be too cold before it exits or it reaches Dew point and acidic vapours condense in the pipe. Not a problem if you use resistant materials, but something to be aware of.
Add aluminum fins on the exhaust to extract more heat.
@Jamie Banyard What an excellent idea using an intercooler .
one my friend has the same heater and he connected exhaust pipe to an house type water radiator. it gets pretty hot as well from the exhaust giving like a lot of extra heat and even a place to dry hat and gloves. But it cant be too long and big, as then heater will throw error about exhaust not being able to leave.
I would love to see using the heat from the exhaust pipe somehow. Either to increase the temp in the room or to use a peltier device to help generate voltage to keep the thing going. Not sure how much wiggle room you have with length and back pressure on that pipe.
Nice workBeen using mine exactly the same as yours.For 2 yrs in my caravan still using it most days in NZ Summer was in a wednesday here...Best item i have ever broughtAlong with solar panel and batteryAfter a bit of tinkering found my best heat output is 1.6hz enough blow of air without too such fuel usageStart up uses 123w ticks Along at 11w on 1.6hz can run all day on a 300w battery wahoo
Similar to the old in car heaters like the "South Wind" that hooked to the intake manifold and produced (I'm Told) a great deal of heat. I have one I've never hooked up. I found instructions and parts on the Webb. Corvairs and VW bugs used the same principle for their optional gas heaters.
It's people like you who spread life saving information 😉. Good show!
Mr Josh!, That's a great review and all the calculations working it out.. Excellent. I was going to Email Vevor but I am going to tell you instead here.As efficient as that is there is lot of room for improvement.The exhaust is going straight out, that is heat that isn't used. there could be some coils that extend out from the heated fresh air output to further use that heat.Not only that but thermal energy, thermal mass. concrete, Iron, rocks all hold thermal heat and this thing blowing on a solid concrete wall to heat it up will have the heat continue well after it is turned off. or water even, you could use it to heat water, a large tank of hot water while it heats the room. there are so many ways this can be improved. Food. cooking. You can connect it to an over and it would heat the oven for thermal mass and be able to cook with it and that vent connected to coils in a water tank so the hot air goes through those coils or the exhaust coils in a water tank. all sorts of things. the exhaust goes through coils in the floor...
To get the very most out of it you should send the exust gas around the room once in a metal or ideally copper pipe before it goes outside
Really great video! I reside in a small cabin (currently using propane in a portable ("Big Buddy") heater that works pretty well, but getting more expensive to operate. I now have something else to consider! Thanks so much! (Oh, by the way, what was your source for the thermal camera??)
Thank you Ed. There should be a link in the description for the thermal camera. All the very best. Cheers J
Would also be nice to see the operation on used oil/alternative fuels as you mentioned, you know, for testing purposes only!
Coming up soon. Cheers J
I have the same heater and to be fair it's great, but it's not as light on fuel as mentioned. I have a small garage that I work from and I use this heater 2 maybe 3 times a week. I would easily empty a tank of fuel daily. Also despite running it occasionally at low temperatures it overheats and stops. The glow plug that it came with is now giving trouble and needs replacing... The heater is only 9 months old. So while it is very convenient, it definitely isn't very reliable. I've also been told that it is not 8 kilowatts but 5 despite paying for 8
The real question about these diesel heaters is when are they going to make one with a silent fuel pump? I've seen YT vids where people have done different mods to quiet them down, but I've been watching these diesel heater vids for years and as far as I know there still hasn't been one made with a silent fuel pump.
Thats insane in USA midwest most independent mechanic shops run on used oil heat all winter. The systems actually burn pretty clean as all u do is add catalytic convertors to the exhaust and it removes most of the stuff. Vs coal powered electricity i.m.o. its much less dangerous
HI Josh - I got the same 8kw model as you here. I mounted it outside on the wall. I ran the control wires and the heat pipe through the wall. I put the battery in the shop where I can easily charge as needed. I set my heat setting at the maximum 5.5 kw. We noticed a nasty burned plastic smell in the heated space. When we turned the unit down to 5 kw maximum the smell stopped. Other wise no complaints. Being outside allows for refueling operations and the pump clicking to be outdoors.
Unless you're using a deep cycle battery, repeated discharges will destroy it pretty quickly. I just leave a 10 amp battery charger hooked up to the battery. It goes on and off as needed, and the battery is always full.
same here, on outside wall of garage, under roof cover, extended exhaust with long run to take it all the way outside.
You should put the exhaust through the middle of a water tank, this would cool down the exhaust and give you free hot water, also with the air pipe and filter put it outside as you will run a cleaner burn with cold air instead of using the hot air from the shed.
Nah, not even close witch!F.O.
One of the best, informative, review videos which I've seen. Precise, clear details, with good quality video. I like your delivery style. Interested in some of the other 'toys' which you have there too. Definitely going to subscribe.
I have one of those actually used it in my basement tied it into my duck to blow the heat upstairs and actually heated my house with. It works great until finally now I have a new unit that’s efficient and it’s it’s in my shed and I’m debating to either use it as a shed heater or a heater additional for garage they are great, they’re design was in initially for RVs campers and cars. My father-in-law has this installed on his church bus because the church bus heater doesn’t heat quick enough so he uses one of these on his bus also
Those are the type of heaters included in commercial truck APU kits for heating a sleeper cab in winter without running the truck. Just mount the burner unit under the bunk and run a fuel line out to oone of the saddle tanks. They work very well. I had one warm my sleeper compartment in -45f wind chill temps (-25 air temp)
Thats no joke, those Webasto's will cook you out of the truck even when it's -40F actual air temp.
A cheap option for a mains 12V PSU is an old X-Box psu "brick".They output a solid 12V at a power of 135W (higher powers available for the older ones).You just need to remove the end connector & combine the individual wires into +ve and -ve groups and connect the 2 switch wires together so it's always on.
Make sure it's a original had tons of problems with fake PSUs when I played on Xbox Well at least with Xbox 360 ones never had to replace my Xbox One PSU luckily they stopped doing External Power Supplies.
@Electronics Italy what about a ham radio power supply, they convert ac to dc 13.8v, many like the Jetstream brand sold by R and L Electronics you can adjust the voltage.
Any link to what would be needed to run this from a UK outlet ??
Instructions unclear. House is on fire. Very warm.
@Electronics Italy Exactly. ATX PSU is def the best option.
⭐️the only thing I can say is that the one I tested worked very well, I only ever turned it on to heat up my truck, I never kept it running very long because my truck would get too hot...👍
I'm familiar with fully vented kerosene heaters made by Monitor, and there is one unit made by Toyotomi from Japan that uses a laser to itemize the fuel. The unit I had was rated at 1200 btu's and also had one rated at 2400btu's. Very efficient, fully programmable, time to start, day, temperature, and choose one of the 3 heat settings : low mid, high.But the price was about $1,300 for the small unit, and about $2,500 for the large one.I would like to find out more information on this unit you are testing. Alex.
Make sure you mount that 300W metal cage psu into a bigger box for safety. The little plastic cover over the main terminals is not enough. Also due to it having no clamp to hold the cable if anyone tripped over the mains cable the live wires would rip out of the terminal block and then you'd have live wires on the floor. Metal cage power supplies are intended to be mounted in the box of a larger machine which takes care of all that.
Sent the unit for you to review and then hiked the prices on Amazon. Amazing 👏🏻
Fitted one to my house ! There was an 8" extractor fan in the kitchen I could temporarily remove to fit two 4" pipes through to the inside of the house, the heater itself is mounted on the outside which is under cover from a canopy we have at the back. Have it on setting number 4 but sometimes as low as 2 with the fan speed increased. Powered using a 12v car battery topped up regularly with a small 3 stage charger. It will run on battery for around 7-10 hours but it does use a fair few amps when the glow plug is lit on startup, after that it doesn't pull much at all...Downstairs gets toasty in no time but takes about an hour or so before you can feel the heat upstairs. Came with 10ltr tank and having to use normal diesel but I do get about a week out of it for an average of 5-6 hours a night.... Usually pay £15-£18 to refill every week depending how much is left in the tank.I will do a video if anyone interested....
@Matty T I have a video of it running chclip.net/video/3fNmUDPsalM/video.html
@Andy Wells chclip.net/video/3fNmUDPsalM/video.html
@ᴡᴏʀʟᴅ ᴇxᴛᴇʀᴍɪɴᴀᴛɪᴏɴ ꜰᴏʀᴜᴍ chclip.net/video/3fNmUDPsalM/video.html
@Matty T Yes I have just made a short video showing it working. chclip.net/video/3fNmUDPsalM/video.html
@cornishcat11 Is Solenoid the word you're looking for?
I've been thinking about using my wood stove to generate electricity. I was going to create a fan on the chimney so the exhaust smoke spins it. I'm sure I seen a video where kids actually made one. Be interesting to see you do it
Would have been wonderful if it generated 8KW electricity (for power outages) and use engine heat to warm up the area. Dual use. I would buy one in an instant. That thing is LOUD!
Now that is how you do a review. Just stumbled upon this channel and instantly love it.
The camper and caravan version I used and have installed in numerous vans is a Thermomate 12v 5kw Diesel Air Heater and it can get boiling very quickly in an average household room space. It is also a smaller unit for tighter spaces.
for a neater exhaust exit you can use a boat thru hull exhaust , quite cheap and looks like a pro install. Mine i also wrapped the exhaust pipe with car manifold wrap to prevent burns.
Also, how you can boost up your efficiency is a lot of people do it have your exhaust go through a radiator and then put a fan on that radiator cause the exhaust fumes are hot so you can boost up the fish and sea of that thing and use less fuel. You can cut the fuel in half.
I was wondering, with the amount of heat coming off of the exhaust if you could pump that through a heat exchanger before pumping it outside. If you could how much of a difference would that make in heating a home or shop? In the old days with wood burning stoves, they used to run the exhaust through a metal pipe on the ceiling the length of the room or house before it left out a chimney. Would there be any benefit of having a longer exhaust inside?
Really enjoyed watching your factual and honest video. [l don't think the hole-punch machine is cheap, l've seen it going for a much lower price] Great video, looking forward to watching future clips.
That would be far more efficient running at its lowest setting. At max, it exhausts a lot of heat because the heat exchanger and fan can’t cope. If you want the most out of your fuel with this model, you need several units running on low rather than one at max. The alternative is to run the exhaust of one unit through a further heat exchanger with fan. A car intercooler basically.
I was thinking exactly the same thing. Except I was looking at an old steam or hot water base board radiator. One thing to remember is that water is a byproduct of burning a hydrocarbon fuel, at a near 1 to 1 ratio. If everything is hot, then it leaves as steam when you remove the heat the flow needs to be considered when installing / modifying a heat exchanger on the exhaust.
Try an EGR valve especially from a car with a plastic inlet manifold. They're water cooled so the exhaust can heat water for say a radiator. or whatever.
1st time on your channel which was nicely explained and demoed thanks Joshua. There are 4 adults in our home and our heating & cooking costs are a lot cheaper because we have a wood stove and a free waste wood supply of wind blown trees at our small 5 acre woodland and all I have to do is cut and split the timber (stored and stacked for a year) and this will keep us warm as toast for very little cost until the summer comes around.At my elderly folks home they have an electric Aga that's on 24/7 (powered by 12 solar panels on the roof) and very efficient it is too, I'd hate to think what that would cost if we had to use the mains electric supply. They also have a gas stove and for an experiment, on the lowest setting, and left on day & night, a full 47 kg tank lasted 8 days and costs about £95 to refill the bottle and now is used sparingly..Alternatively probably the best and cheapest way to heat your home would be using a ground sourced heat-pump which pays for itself in about 5 to 8 years. Unless your home has triple glazing and is completely sealed it's not worth buying an air-sourced heat-pump because I doubt they would ever pay for themselves in anybody's lifetime.
Thank you Peter. That's really good. Ground source is definitely something I'll look more into. Cheers J
Thanks for that presentation and specific details on issues to watch out for and was wondering if you've done any videos on solar ovens, for cooking and heating. I had a sun oven that uses a cylinder and reflectors that's incredible and as you may have seen, there's much material on utube on this with DIYers, many manufactures, with their products. As a clean alternative to fuels, such as what you've described, this would be a great additional method when the sun is out. Also, years ago, I saw a library in Europe, that uses glass pillars that heat air to warm the building. Thanks in advance for any material you're able to find on these things and great job in your presentation, communication, inspiring everyone to take their energy choices seriously rather then just watch TV for three hours and up on the weekends, daily.
@Joshua De Lisle Thanks; I'll check the methods you used later on for that "vacuum method" and here in NYC, NY (USA), we must follow Bldg. codes, so I'd need to also create a satellite mount to attach it to an outside wall or create a stand that can be easily retracted from from my fire escape area (Aprox. 4 and a half feet square.). Foldable fins made from aluminum would work better for me since Fire inspectors arrive unexpectedly, twice a year. Thanks for those videos on the details on various methods of the construction of this. I may consider an aluminum mount, created from pipe, angles, to hold the cookware, as time permits.
@Adrew Dio yes the recovery blanket. My plan is to tension one over a large open ended bottom half of a barrel then vacuum pump the air out until the blanket is perfectly parabolic from the deformation of the suction pressure. Then I'll rig it up like a satellite dish. Cheers J
@Joshua De Lisle I'm guessing you're referring to those emergency mylar blankets that the marathon runners use? Perhaps you'd make a metal skeleton circumference with support parts equally positioned in five or eight locations with a tapered design to create that funnel type shape, almost like an upside down pentagram or rounded cone shape, depending on which one can focus the suns rays more effectively, while providing a full angle to catch the sun during most of the day, afternoon exposure. Thanks for your reply on this. I've seen some interesting work by using an oven to melt plexiglass to a concave shape and was wondering if you'd consider this option, since it appears to be more durable or maybe better yet, to use aluminum sheets with a taper to get that focusing effect. Thanks for the work you do perform to make energy options affordable to anyone living off the grid, etc..
I have plans on building a parabolic mirror using a 'space blanket' which are super cheap to get hold of. I'm making heat exchangers for hot water and steam production. You could easily create an insulated chamber to cook using solar. Cheers J