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Spray Foam Insulation - The Ugly Truth?

  • čas přidán 24. 01. 2022
  • 🔻DIY Spray Foam Insulation ~ Is it a Good Idea?🔻
    • DIY Spray Foam Insulat...
    Roger explains the pros and cons of having spray foam insulation in your house.
    Spray foam insulation explained by the Which? Team.
    Also called spray polyurethane foam (SPF), it is an alternative to traditional building insulation.
    It's versatile and can be used to insulate your roof, loft, walls and floor, helping to retain warmth and reduce energy costs.
    Spray foam insulation offers a number of benefits, such as:
    ✔ It can be applied in difficult-to-reach areas.
    ✔ In some cases, it can provide additional soundproofing.
    However, there are also some significant drawbacks to consider, such as:
    ✖ It’s more expensive than other types of insulation.
    ✖ It needs to be installed by a professional.
    ✖ It can be difficult to remove once it's been installed.
    ✖ Potentially reduces ventilation within the roof space, causing humidity and dampness; placing roof timbers at risk of decay.
    ✖ Harmful fumes are given off during installation.
    ✖ It shouldn't be used in listed buildings or houses with thatched roofs.
    ✖ It’s often ugly, messy and can’t be decorated over.
    ✖ It can affect the value of your property.
    ✖ It may prevent buyers from getting a mortgage.
    We'd strongly advise getting specialist advice from an expert or two in this area and proceeding with caution.
    What is spray foam insulation?
    Spray foam insulation is a liquid foam that is sprayed into position and sets into an insulating layer.
    It can be used to insulate your roof, loft, walls, floors and more. It has been in use for more than 30 years and is now becoming increasingly popular as it’s an effective insulator and can also stop air leakage.
    There are two types of spray foam insulation to choose from. Closed-cell spray foam Open-cell spray foam. If spray foam insulation is right for your home and budget, the type you choose will depend on what you want it to do.
    If you’re looking to insulate your loft, the Which dedicated guide explains the different types of loft insulation.
    🔗 www.which.co.uk/reviews/insul... - Which?
    #SPF #FoamInsulation #RoofInsulation
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Komentáře • 2,3K

  • @SkillBuilder
    @SkillBuilder  Před měsícem +2

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  • @Katya5cat
    @Katya5cat Před rokem +641

    Some years ago we added a bathroom in our 180 year old brick farmhouse. When it came to insulation we decided on using spray foam. The chief reason for doing so was the number of rodents in the attic and walls. We were concerned about another space that the mice would have free reign at hence the foam. I did all the spraying myself. I used large kits that came with a 2 part foam in 2 pressurized tanks of chemicals. I suited up in coveralls, gloves, hood, face shield and HALF FACE respirator. The spraying went quite well using 2 kits to complete the job. when I got to the end of the first kit of tanks it spewed gases out without any foam forming. I completed the job with a second kit. To my surprise the house was filled with a fog. Well as it turned out it was only in my corneas. With a trip to the ER I came home with foggy vision and told by the ER doctor to seek specialist help in the morning. To my delight the fog had disappeared and my vision restored. So my advice is to let professionals do the work or use FULL FACE respirators.

    • @outlet6989
      @outlet6989 Před rokem +38

      The moral of your story is "Never let a DIYer do a professional's job."

    • @supupandaway8138
      @supupandaway8138 Před rokem +6

      That happens to everyone when they first start using it i hated the smell after awhile smells like roasting peanuts we used it for packing and shipping decades ago before it was used as insulation

    • @MissionaryForMexico
      @MissionaryForMexico Před rokem +18

      That is correct full face mask. I use with new charcoal lined filters! You will also learn, the spray foam closed cell, will make the room much quieter, and extremely energy efficient!

    • @majorpwner241
      @majorpwner241 Před rokem +29

      @@outlet6989 Ha I worked on a 'professional' crew doing this and the same happened to me. It's a shit line of work, do not suggest it.

    • @joju4072
      @joju4072 Před rokem +34

      Ha I did about 40 tanks, had my house inspected for Voc and other pollutants and guess what. Passed with highest scores. Really need to stop acting like just because you cant do it properly, does not mean others cant.

  • @aquatus1
    @aquatus1 Před rokem +35

    I actually experienced an unexpected bathroom issue, where after spray foam, the bathroom began to stink of sewer gas. It turned out that the seal in the house was so good, the vacuum effect you spoke about was in effect, but the bathroom fan was a bit overpowered and it would actually suck an occasional bubble out of the water trap in the toilet whenever the bathroom door was closed. We actually had to keep the bathroom door open to prevent that until we got a less powerful fan.

    • @davidcurtis5398
      @davidcurtis5398 Před rokem +3

      Won't happen with a properly vented house.

    • @kirkragland7563
      @kirkragland7563 Před rokem +6

      Your bathroom door should not have an air tight seal it's an interior door not an exterior door.

    • @MrDmadness
      @MrDmadness Před 11 měsíci +1

      Have a insulated combustion air pot installed in your mech room and you will no longer have this issue. I am a licensed red seal plumber, gasfitter and electrician specializing in controls and heating installations

    • @DJCJ999
      @DJCJ999 Před měsícem

      I have a similar issue in my upstairs toilet and figured it was the bog... thought the air trap in it wasn't working but now I wonder if its a air flow issue :?

    • @aquatus1
      @aquatus1 Před měsícem

      @@DJCJ999 Could be that, could also be the amount of water in the bowl is a little too low for the air trap to be working properly (or a combination of the two.

  • @gordonbruce93
    @gordonbruce93 Před rokem +29

    A well balanced presentation Roger, the biggest issue in our opinion, is when something does go wrong !! it is a nightmare to locate and assess the full extent.

  • @HairyKnees1
    @HairyKnees1 Před rokem +67

    I live in a very cold area (below freezing for many months at a time) and spray foam is very popular due to eliminating drafty gaps. It’s good in new builds with the correct ventilation system for it. Mortgage companies in my country are fine with spray foam, so that must vary by country.

  • @JohnboyCollins
    @JohnboyCollins Před rokem +64

    An underrated aspect of closed cell foams is the rigidity and strength. Especially with the high density foams, it can be incredibly strong, in many cases stronger than the frame itself. Ultimately I think it just makes sense to combine structural and insulative components in things like SIP panels.

    • @mrbonelesswings1234
      @mrbonelesswings1234 Před rokem +6

      My company, based off a recent study, actually does fortifications with closed cell. I haven't seen first hand how much it actually helps, but I've been told it greatly increases the durability of your house in the event of tornados or hurricanes.

    • @terryurquhart2413
      @terryurquhart2413 Před rokem +2

      @@mrbonelesswings1234 not many tornadoes in UK though …

    • @rickybobby43
      @rickybobby43 Před rokem +1

      ​@@terryurquhart2413 it's not destructive strength. it's meant as used in 150 year old houses that have no structure left in the old wood framing. I am under way a major Reno now and can't wait to spray it. the framing was completely encased in concrete and there is zero structure left

    • @weaponizedautism6199
      @weaponizedautism6199 Před 11 měsíci +2

      Ive been in an attic installing alarm systems that had a closed cell foam as thick as the ceiling rafters. The owner walked around on it like it was concrete. I still stayed on the rafters.

    • @warperone
      @warperone Před 5 měsíci

      Great informative video.

  • @iketheranter9126
    @iketheranter9126 Před 3 měsíci +21

    I worked for the man that invented this product. I'm glad you detailed the many possible drawbacks with this material. I was in the manufacturing side but was also required to understand the different applications which required different product mixes.
    Personally I have always had concerns with long term degradation and off gassing. Everything breaks down over time.
    Also, moisture build up or leaks can be a real problem. Running wires or piping after the initial construction is also a problem.
    I think you covered it all quite well.
    Btw, this material was discovered by accident. The company was called Flexible Products which specialized in flexable adhesives. The inventor and his brother were experimenting with a new formula for quite a while looking for a stronger, construction type adhesive. One morning they came back after a late night in the lab of what they thought was a failure and this huge foam blob was covering the table they had been using.
    Years later, he sold out to DOW chemical and generously paid his long term employees large severance/ profit sharing checks and he retired.
    Unfortunately, a short few months later, he passed away at a golf course on Tybee Island.
    He was a good, kind, generous man and everytime I see this product, I think about him.
    Thanks for your time.

    • @Mixdplate
      @Mixdplate Před měsícem +3

      Appreciate the back story, although a sad ending. I've been a bit leery on the use of spray foam as insulation. Heard awhile back that somewhere it was banned for insulation due to being so flammable. Aside from that, my issue with the stuff is with what you mentioned; potential for moisture issues and it seems like a disaster for any future plumbing or electrical work.

    • @iketheranter9126
      @iketheranter9126 Před měsícem +1

      @@Mixdplate it's expensive too.

    • @thepaul2188
      @thepaul2188 Před měsícem +2

      I dunno when this stuff is installed correctly ie air cards closed cell where closed cell is applicable and open cell where applicable can have huge benefits in heat savings and sound insulation. I can see it being a problem when trying to identify a leak in a roof but if you have a leak you have a problem anyway so not the foams fault. It gets installed quite a lot here in Ireland where we have a lot of high winds and cold wet winters and because our construction industry is quite heavily regulated I haven’t heard really any negative things about foam only positive

    • @wpcnola
      @wpcnola Před 10 dny +2

      Hidden destruction when wet wood does not have proper air circulation for drying.

  • @gwil6100
    @gwil6100 Před rokem +322

    As an electrician I also always see issues where original cabling hasn’t been designed to surrounded by that extend of thermal insulation, which can lead to over heating of cables and possibly fire.
    Also I see it as a nightmare situation if you ever need to make a repair or alteration, to locate or even cut through all the foam to add cabling for new fixtures or fittings.
    Personally I believe that of this kind of insulation os going to be used all services should be informed so that it can be taken into consideration during design so that cabling size and maybe a conduit system could be installed to address certain potential issues. All this just means greater cost elsewhere so for me I would always go for modular insulation.

    • @BradKittelTTH
      @BradKittelTTH Před rokem +11

      Limiting AC in the walls at headboard level in walls for tinier spaces is also an ignored imperative due to the EMF on your Pineal gland and brain at night which prevents the production of anti-inflammatory Melatonin and the flushing of the lymph fluids properly, negating dreaming which also leads to Attention Deficit, tiredness during the day, and how much outside radiation due to power meters, 5G, etc. Tiny Space compounds the impact due to exposure level but also less heat from DC current in walls and simple to take off the grid. SpaceMagic designs I have used on Tiny Texas Houses which were R&D for salvage building sustainable house proved out the contents of the house and wiring are often the cause of much illness... and as was pointed out, hypoxia is a bigger issue in tight tiny spaces, especially if constructed of outgassing materials that are harmful to health.

    • @N20Joe
      @N20Joe Před rokem +23

      Have you seen properly installed wiring with proper overcurrent protection be damaged by over-insulation? I've seen burnt wires in both insulated and non-insulated walls occur from improper/DIY overcurrent protection but not the situation you describe. NEC wire sizing is VERY conservative.

    • @michaelmaroney1660
      @michaelmaroney1660 Před rokem +5

      akita 1973 I took this possibility into account when I built my house. My entire electrical system is in schedule 80 PVC conduit. However, my house was built into a 30ft×60ft metal building. So I don't have ANY of the issues he is describing.

    • @raybertelsen6090
      @raybertelsen6090 Před rokem +11

      If they wiring was done to code and you DO NOT overload it it will be fine. now I have some tenanants that want to add a AC/fish tank/ tv vidio etc etc into one plug via extcords then complaian the circuit keeps tripping, GEEs really I wonder why?. Long story short if circuits are used as intended there should be no overheating problems. That why we have NEC , I would have no problem sealing my house with foam

    • @lenoflorer6151
      @lenoflorer6151 Před rokem +6

      Only way in my opinion the only common sense thing to do is use EMT. Then you can pull new wire if needed and also protect from possible fire dangers.

  • @DrSteve660
    @DrSteve660 Před rokem +26

    I had spray foam applied directly to the underside of my slate roof years ago, but the wooden beams remain visible. It certainly works as insulation - when it snows the snow lingers on my roof much longer than it does on my neighbours’. As a bonus, the original builders had used a very sandy mortar to bind the slates and it was constantly shedding dirt on everything below. The foam sealed all this in so now I have a clean attic space for storage. Recently, however, I have considered installing solar panels but for slate roofs these require special brackets which, in turn, necessitate removal and replacement of the slates. With foam sticking them all down this will be a problem. If anybody is considering solar panels and foam, I’d suggest get the panels installed first!

    • @alexanderwathen9026
      @alexanderwathen9026 Před rokem

      They didnt wrap over the studs

    • @stuarthorwood2101
      @stuarthorwood2101 Před rokem +2

      Sorry DrSteve, but if you think fitting solar panels to a foam sprayed roof is a problem, just wait til you come to sell your home and discover that no mortgage company will finance your buyer because of the foam. Good luck with that!

    • @LG123ABC
      @LG123ABC Před rokem +6

      @@stuarthorwood2101 Must be a Brit thing because I've never heard of it being a problem in the US.

  • @pauldaignault7407
    @pauldaignault7407 Před rokem +71

    I had spray foam installed when I had the house built ten years ago. I was aware that a roof leak could compound things a bit as the foam could retain some moisture. To add an extra measure of protection I specified that a premium quality synthetic roof underpayment be used instead of tar paper. I went with Titanium UDL-30. That’s the sort of thing that is used in Miami where hurricanes are common. This stuff is head and shoulders better than tar paper, but it costs the same price. You might lose all of your shingles in a storm, but your roof still won’t leak. It also does not tear or decay like tar paper. Having done that I did not have to worry about a roof leak with foam installed in my roof. I should also mention that with foam installed in your roof your entire attic space will only be about five degrees cooler or warmer than the ambient air in your home’s living space. That reduces the strain on your hearing and AC system located in your attic space.

    • @pedrosanchez702
      @pedrosanchez702 Před rokem +8

      Just a heads up, if your shingles were to come off, your roof would definitely still leak because the holes from the nails of the shingles would become uncovered and the water would penetrate to your sheating. I would advise you to climb up on your roof once every year and thoroughly inspect for exposed nails, torn or cracked shingles, and also exposed underlayment to ensure no water enters your roof.

    • @Santor-
      @Santor- Před rokem +4

      The problem though, is that although your convinced, not all buyers are. Personally, I would not buy a house with it, and im not the only one.

    • @outlet6989
      @outlet6989 Před rokem +3

      I had that roof membrane used when my house needed a new roof installed. Recently, my house needed to have a four-point inspection. My home insurance company went belly up, and my new one required this. The inspector spent quite some time doing his inspection of the roof. When he finished, he informed me that he noticed that I had that membrane installed and told me that I would get a nice discount. In Florida, you will not even get an insurance policy if your roof is over 25 years old.

    • @kevin83FL
      @kevin83FL Před rokem +2

      You do realize they nail the shingles through the underlayment right?

    • @pauldaignault7407
      @pauldaignault7407 Před rokem +6

      @@kevin83FL There could be a small amount of leakage around the nail shaft, but the synthetic underlayment is so much stronger and longer lasting than tar paper that it will still be waterproof for the most part. Tar paper absolutely disintegrates after about a month or so in the Florida sun. Synthetic underlayment will last more than a year if exposed. Nothing is perfect, but for the same price as tar paper synthetic underlayment is the way to go these days.

  • @hi-tech55
    @hi-tech55 Před rokem +10

    I had to board out a loft because of this foam. As Roger said, the people buying the house, couldn’t get a mortgage until it had been removed. It was quite a small house , a simple up an over pitched roof. The foam removal company charged £2,500 and wouldn’t touch it until the loft space was boarded, which is understandable. That was another £800 so it can be an expensive business. Good video Roger.

  • @largelarry2126
    @largelarry2126 Před rokem +57

    I made walk in freezers and coolers for years and we never had any sort of water problems. In fact, the water would run off plus the foam was so tight on the metal skin there was no room for water. People also overlook how strong the foam is, having it inside a wall would make it much stronger than fiberglass in the same wall. If you had two walls one with spray in foam and one without, I bet the foam wall could support twice the weight. It's not all bad you just need to let it off-gas before covering it up.

    • @carldupre9865
      @carldupre9865 Před rokem +1

      You ever make a walk in cooler out of wood?

    • @justinlast2lastharder749
      @justinlast2lastharder749 Před rokem

      If you are relying on the Insulation to Hold Weight, you have already fucked things up beyond repair. What happens when someone decides they want another Outlet? Or if they want to run recessed lights? Where does the Water Go when there is a leak? It has to go somewhere...
      There is no reason to have Spray Foam Insulation. It is nothing but a Detriment.

    • @olenilsen4660
      @olenilsen4660 Před rokem +7

      @@justinlast2lastharder749 IDK about your profession or education, but I am a Mechanical Engineer myself. What I can tell you, is that sometimes strenght does not only rely on the material itself, but sometimes how it is supported. Now foam might not have a lot of strength in itself, but it supports the load bearing structure sideways. So it actually helps a great deal with the loads by just fixing the beams in place, which is an enormous factor in load bearing calculations. However, my concern would be the longevity of this support, as foam insulation deteriorates quite quickly. As long as it acts like glue with a structure, it is fine. But it becomes porous and detaches itself quite quickly, and then the benefits are void. I guess what I´m saying is that you´re right, but for the wrong reasons...

    • @bobboscarato1313
      @bobboscarato1313 Před 10 měsíci +1

      I sold foam insulation long ago and I've seen walls buckle and sheetrock had to be replaced. Not a cheap proposition! Need expert installers!

  • @lunatik9696
    @lunatik9696 Před rokem +5

    Many homes are built using 2x6 walls.
    One engineer that worked in home construction told me after they used the closed cell,
    they come back and fill in with open cell and have had good results.
    You could use any number of insulation products for the remaining 3 1/2".
    Closed cell foam should be limited to 1 1/2 - 2" thick. It has R6 to 7 per inch.
    There are many cases where this has not been heeded and there are odors that linger for months if not longer making a home unlivable. Another reason to use a trained professional.
    Open cell has R3 to R4 per inch. 2" Closed cell-R14 plus 3 1/2" open cell-R14 provides R28 total. This is before external sheathings are considered.
    I don't think I would consider anything else if building new.

  • @christophernunn943
    @christophernunn943 Před rokem +76

    Really interesting video, my concern is enclosing a property with a chemical based thermal envelope and ignoring any potential health issues arising from the vapours coming of these products. I remember the cavity wall insulation debacle some years ago where householders fell ill because of the toxic fumes/vapours building up in the cavities and entering the interior. Adverse health issues through the use of chemicals in a living space can sometimes take a long time to materialise and not fully understood by the purveyors of these products. The building industry is littered with products that have found to be harmful to health and posthumously withdrawn. I personally over past couple years have come to realise that plastic is not a mans best friend anymore.

    • @Synchrimedia
      @Synchrimedia Před rokem +7

      yes, there were some horror stories when this stuff first came out, but they've worked out the problems and it becomes inert once it's applied. there is absolutely no smell at all even a few hours after the spray foam cures now. I think many of the problems were due to inexperienced, untrained people who were mixing/applying it wrong.

    • @christophernunn943
      @christophernunn943 Před rokem +11

      @@Synchrimedia it’s not odours we are talking about here my friend, emissions like carbon monoxide don’t smell nor does asbestos both are hazardous and lethal to human health. Asbestos use in construction was only banned as recently as 2000, tradesmen had been using it for a lifetime before and the cancers are only now appearing at an alarming speed. MDF is now another prime suspect which I believe is banned in some Scandinavian countries and so it goes on.

    • @davidhamilton7628
      @davidhamilton7628 Před rokem +27

      I've been a remodel carpenter for twenty years and think we all would be better off in mud huts 🛖

    • @hotrodray6802
      @hotrodray6802 Před rokem +4

      Bob Boscarto...
      Yes. And those Model A Ford's are a crash hazard.
      I wall never own a car of any kind because if them.

  • @kenbeiser4443
    @kenbeiser4443 Před 11 měsíci +4

    As I said elsewhere, I have about 30 years experience as a timber framer using with SIPs and closed cell polyisocyanurate spray foam insulation systems. I am retired now but I lean more towards dense pack cellulose without an air or vapor barrier/retarder. Finding “craftsman” willing to do it my way is difficult. I am fortunate to have satisfied clients that let me observe what works (and what doesn’t). Some places had blower door tests and thermal imaging to help me monitor our quality control.
    So at 66 my wife and I are going to do dense pack cellulose for my “last” place …..ourselves.

  • @m.c.degroffdavis9885
    @m.c.degroffdavis9885 Před rokem +8

    Love this video! You did an amazing job of explaining spray foam insulation and hashing through some of the issues associated with it. Thanks.

  • @martinmorgan9
    @martinmorgan9 Před 3 měsíci

    Roger, I always enjoy your videos, which are packed with information that the normal home owner would know nothing about.
    You touch on the matter of the condition of roof rafters that could become saturated if roofing felt breaks down, and it's that which would steer me towards using Celotex or similar.
    Now that you've told your viewers how YOU create a warm roof, that's a 100% steer for me!
    Thank you. Keep up the good work!

  • @KurtBendl
    @KurtBendl Před rokem +34

    I had spray foam professionally done after a rehab of a 115 year old home. I gutted the attic “apartment”, repaired the weighted window pulls, ran all the electrical and CAT-6, added a proper adjustable vent, then spray foam in the rafters and walls up there, drywall, carpet. It went from the most uncomfortable room in the house to where the kids and I spent most of our time. Also sprayed a barrier around the skirt of the house which was exposed and accessible above the sandstone blocks in the basement. This house is in the southeastern US, where it’s hot and miserable in the summers, and grey and damp in the winters. Spray foam is _the_ best investment in energy savings and comfort I’ve ever made!

    • @dannysdailys
      @dannysdailys Před rokem +13

      Until all your lumber rots out it is. And if you sprayed it on the inside of the roof directly, it will all rot out.

    • @Loki087
      @Loki087 Před rokem +4

      I do water mitigation in the Southeast. Spray foam is one of the building materials we absolutely hate to come across. It's absolutely terrible to remove, and more often than not the wood is rotting underneath and the homeowner has health issues from breathing in mold spores.

    • @googleuser6440
      @googleuser6440 Před 11 měsíci +4

      Its a fire hazard, once this stuff is exposed to a heat source it will burn gard and fast and produces toxic smoke, thats why I never recommend it to any of my customers, fire safety is the most important thing

  • @philmarsh7723
    @philmarsh7723 Před rokem +43

    You need to provide ventilation baffles between the roof decking and the foam or fiberglass insulation to provide a path for moisture to evaporate from under the roof. These baffles need to communicate airflow between the soffits and the roof vents on the roof peak.

  • @dugbert9
    @dugbert9 Před rokem +93

    Almost 30 years ago we spray foamed the slate roof of an old stone cottage (inside obviously). This was done directly to the slates. I was worried for a long time about what we had done but here we are 30 years later and it's been absolutely faultless. We haven't even lost a slate off the roof in all that time. Not one. The main roof timbers were left exposed for the cottage look and the foam was hidden with plasterboard so, to the casual observer, it looks like an original ceiling. The cottage is very warm too.

    • @Ryan-kg2fv
      @Ryan-kg2fv Před rokem +7

      My boss won't even touch a roof if it's been foamed as he says it's not worth the hassle.

    • @dugbert9
      @dugbert9 Před rokem +9

      @@Ryan-kg2fv that's the kind of thing I worried about. But to be fair, 30 years service has been pretty good value. I was worried that the battens would rot and we'd have no option but to re-roof but we have been fortunate. Would we do it again? Probably not. I'm much better at cutting in insulation now than I was then too 🤓

    • @pauldavies5655
      @pauldavies5655 Před rokem +1

      @@dugbert9 look what i said above please . 30 plus years experience on roofs .

    • @SawmillerSmith
      @SawmillerSmith Před rokem +3

      I understand some about if they remove the old roofing that's glued to the foam. Myself I would roof over the old roof.

    • @Ryan-kg2fv
      @Ryan-kg2fv Před rokem +3

      @@SawmillerSmith most of the time that's not possible. But that's the reason boss won't touch them. Too much hassle stripping them.

  • @andrewcoulter525
    @andrewcoulter525 Před 3 měsíci

    Just a thought, could you line each area you are going to spray foam into with plastic sheet such that once the foam set into a block it would be removable? That way you would still get the transport cost saving, avoid inaccurate insulation block sizing and be able to remove the insulation for ongoing structural assessment. Of course the extra labour cost may be cost prohibitive and the plastic sheet would have to be fire safe. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

  • @pauldaignault7407
    @pauldaignault7407 Před rokem +116

    I got spray foam installed in my new home ten years ago. It was the open cell type. It’s been great as my utility bills are lower and the house is quiet. Cost was $7000 more than regular blown in cellulose insulation..it has paid for itself and will be a selling point when I come to sell the house. Absolutely no bugs in the house as it is completely sealed. I would do it again with another house.

    • @hawkhunter8180
      @hawkhunter8180 Před rokem +8

      Same here, 100% agree with you. I would do it again!

    • @eddieduff9740
      @eddieduff9740 Před rokem +7

      I believe open cell is not recommended for roofs in colder climates like the UK. Are you guys in hot climates?

    • @pauldaignault7407
      @pauldaignault7407 Před rokem +6

      BTW, my home is located in NW Florida. I don’t think that I would add open cell foam to an existing home. I could not be 100% sure about the condition of the roof. This was a new home which also had a synthetic underlayment (Titanium UDL-30) for better water proofing instead of tar paper.

    • @craigrees6361
      @craigrees6361 Před rokem +2

      @@eddieduff9740 rubbish the product has been approved and passed every bba test I've been I the industry for years and have yet to find any issues with opencell spray foam as long g as its done properly and almost the relevant tests and checks have been done 1st

    • @steveezard8859
      @steveezard8859 Před rokem +3

      @@private8559 only when used in conjunction with an adequate vapor barrier.

  • @dvs1867
    @dvs1867 Před rokem +3

    The use of "vapour barrier" or rather vapour retarder is recommended for certain climate zones. For attics you need a good ventilation. You have to make sure that moisture in the air is vented out.

  • @sixes1854
    @sixes1854 Před rokem +15

    Spray foam in a steel framed home works out nicely. We built 3 of them, with a wall cavity of 8 3/8" on the exterior walls, heating and cooling the homes was very low cost.

    • @justinlast2lastharder749
      @justinlast2lastharder749 Před rokem +2

      Yeah, but every repair on electrical or plumbing was very expensive...I'd hate to see a water leak with that bullshit in it...

    • @hiramhaji7813
      @hiramhaji7813 Před rokem

      So do you recommend for metal buildings like an outside shop?

  • @gnuthad
    @gnuthad Před rokem +6

    One benefit of spray foam which I didn't see/hear mentioned is that a thinner layer of spray foam provides a similar level of insulation to thicker fibreglass insulation.

  • @pcno2832
    @pcno2832 Před rokem +7

    This seems like a great idea in theory but a mixed blessing in practice. Another fear with some 2 part systems is that if they are improperly mixed, the uncured components will off-gas, releasing potentially harmful fumes. I've not heard of the mortgage problems you describe here in the USA (perhaps because slate and tile roofs are rare here), but I'd lean toward an open cell foam, so that at least you know early when a leak occurs. On the other hand it is claimed that closed cell foam adds a lot to the strength of the roof, for those in hurricane zones.

    • @bunzeebear2973
      @bunzeebear2973 Před rokem +1

      Can you really tell (if you live in a hurricane zone or tornado alley which was spray foamed and which wasn't when they are LEVELED. Think I prefer the house on wheels during that time of year...always wanted to go to the beach. Who does plaster walls anymore? It is generally gypsum board. Insulated Rafters is a NO GO practice, and the foam has that nasty habit of off gassing a carcinogen HFC(almost as bad...maybe worse than asbestos at causing cancer)

    • @kellyvcraig
      @kellyvcraig Před rokem

      A problem not mentioned is, docks use closed cell foam, because open cell will take on water and sink.
      If have such extreme moisture problems you have to worry about moisture traveling through, you've got bigger problems. That same moisture is the enemy of glass too. The more moisture in it, the worse it insulates.

  • @emilmuhrman
    @emilmuhrman Před 11 měsíci +4

    It's interesting hearing about insulation in other countries. Here in Sweden the norm is 25-40 cm insulation in walls and floor and about the double in the roof.

  • @notmyrealname8064
    @notmyrealname8064 Před rokem +1

    Definitely some issues with spray foam, but also some massive advantages. Like most products, its dependent on the climate you are designing the system to address. Makes perfect sense to me that the UK with the cooler but more humid environment would lead to totally different results than using it in the USA, where that climate is not preset outside a few small regions (Seattle area for example). Here in the US, I have seen it praised highly in a number of specific circumstances. Particularly: R-value per inch is almost impossible to beat. Retrofit in tight and confined spaces like crawlspaces is MUCH easier than trying to perfectly size things by hand. Man-hours required are far lower compared to trying to get a good tight batt insulation, and as soon as the initial off gassing is complete you are available to work again. More training is required for the installer by far, but that training is centralized in a few highly competent installers, instead of a larger number of lower skilled labor. Finally - and something that might have the largest impact here in the USA: New construction in much of the nation is now required to pass a blower door test to verify the airtightness of the home before certification of occupancy. Spray foam dramatically reduces the number of potential touchpoints that could be letting conditioned air escape, and is relatively cheap insurance to ensure that the house passes without potentially project-busting overage to try and open things back up and find where those few CFM are going.

    • @dannysdailys
      @dannysdailys Před rokem +1

      Except that your house needs to breath like you do and the regulations are B.S.

  • @jimarcher5255
    @jimarcher5255 Před rokem +2

    As a general contractor I hated spray insulation and only used it if I could not convince the owner it was a bad idea. It makes a remodel job a nightmare.

  • @jimjimgl3
    @jimjimgl3 Před rokem +4

    Moved from a doorman building in NYC to Chicago and gut-rehab two adjacent buildings into a live/work space. We used spray foam throughout the project (7000sq ft). I'm continually amazed at how small our heating and cooling costs are. Here in the US there spray foam insulation is sought after.

  • @robk1310
    @robk1310 Před rokem +426

    This must be a UK issue. No mortgage company in the USA ever asks about spray foam.

    • @luckysevenairammo1217
      @luckysevenairammo1217 Před rokem +93

      Yup. Must be some bad foam installers in the Shire. Because in the US, Foam increases home value instantly and it is actually highly sought after in a home.
      I heat over 6k sq ft in harsh New England winters for $500 average per winter. Foam is a no brainer.

    • @ibberman
      @ibberman Před rokem +31

      @@luckysevenairammo1217 $500 for the winter, Holy Smokes. We rented a 2600 sq ft house in N. Ca. The forced air heating bill was $500 per month.

    • @luckysevenairammo1217
      @luckysevenairammo1217 Před rokem +40

      @@ibberman Yup, 100% fully foamed home, 2,600sf upstairs 2,600sf downstairs including a loft above and part of the basement completely heated space with a 98% efficiency propane forced hot air system. And running a HVR fresh air intake, changes all the air in the house every 24hrs with 3 to 4 percent heat loss. It's absolutely amazing how efficient foam insulation is.

    • @ibberman
      @ibberman Před rokem +5

      @@luckysevenairammo1217 That my friend, is incredible. What type of foam did you have installed ? Apparently that makes a difference. I'd like to try that in the future. Did you do anything different with the electric wiring that people seem to be concerned about ? Thank's for the insight. 👍

    • @alsehl3609
      @alsehl3609 Před rokem +24

      @@luckysevenairammo1217 The problems that the video talks about indicates they are still on the learning curve, they dont yet realize it is a "system", proper design and whole house continuos mechanical ventilation. Also a well maintained roof.

  • @TheMartyJD
    @TheMartyJD Před rokem +7

    Great video. I'm in exactly the situation you've mentioned. Selling my house. But previous owners had spray foam insulation. After our buyers mortgage survey, we lost our buyers. Now in the processes of removing foam, replacing felt, etc. Pretty much new roof.

  • @cyberpleb2472
    @cyberpleb2472 Před rokem +1

    I think spray foam can be great, but not applied directly to the underside of a roof. For one, it forms a watertight seal which will lead to roof rot long before a leak is detected. But I also wonder about it's role in ice damming as there will still be some loss of heat. Where I live (in central BC, Canada) we get over three feet of snow and the roof is snow covered for more than half the year. The ceiling is insulated, but not the underside of the roof. In a northern climate, if an attic is not well ventilated and the same temperature as the outside, ice damming will occur.

  • @waldo2635
    @waldo2635 Před rokem +15

    Here's 1 problem with spray foam in attics...If you have plumbing vents that go through the roof then you have a rubber boot around it on top of your roof to keep water from coming in. That boot usually dry rots, cracks & shrinks allowing a small amount of water to make inside the attic where the foam absorbs it. This grows a small amount of mold & algae. This will attract the outdoor roaches nicknamed "water bugs" or "palmetto bugs"...(they're roaches). The exterminator will not be able to stop the roach problem so if you've noticed this I recommend inspecting your rubber boots around the plumbing vents.

    • @itscard0man
      @itscard0man Před 11 měsíci

      But that is only with open cell ? Closed cell does not absorb the water correct ?

    • @waldo2635
      @waldo2635 Před 11 měsíci

      @@itscard0man Great question but I don't know the answer.

    • @bobboscarato1313
      @bobboscarato1313 Před 10 měsíci +1

      Have a roofer replace the boots every 3 years to be on the safe side! Or you may do it yourself if you're no afraid or heights!

  • @karissamacgregor7449
    @karissamacgregor7449 Před rokem +1

    I've have only recently started researching ways to insulate in hopes of having my home built, and I must say that this video is beautiful. None of these concerns was mentioned even once in all my past month researching. Thank you good sir! You got a new subscriber!

  • @contemplate-Matt.G
    @contemplate-Matt.G Před 11 měsíci

    Great video. Spray foam is fantastic for basement and crawlspace walls and IMO....that's it. Use rockwool bats done properly in the rest of the house. Use R 30 in your flat ceilings and make sure your attic is as close to the outside temp as possible by venting it properly.
    Use baffles in your vaulted ceilings with soffit and ridge venting for air flow beneath the roof sheathing.
    Some old style things are just better

  • @tomaatjes4834
    @tomaatjes4834 Před rokem +24

    Missing one thing in the video: health and safety.
    There have been several cases where the contractor didn't do the mixing correctly and the spray foam kept on releasing chemicals into the air. The residents became hyper sensitive to urethane and their houses had to be demolished and replaced by a completely new house. Recycling of sprayed building materials is a nightmare as well.

    • @serlalonde8420
      @serlalonde8420 Před rokem +3

      Ran into a similar issue where the spray foam kept off-gassing V.O.C.'s into the living area. Husband got sick and passed away unexpectedly after about a year in the home. Wife kept getting sick and after extensive testing was done the V.O.C's were determined to be causing her issue but were "not" linked to his passing. As the HVAC contractor on the home we installed systems with fresh air, ERV systems, dehumidifiers(in La., very high humidity) and electronic air cleaners.

    • @majorpwner241
      @majorpwner241 Před rokem +3

      Glad someone said it... having worked the job, this stuff is NOT something I'd want to be surrounded by in the place where I live. I'll take poor insulation, thanks.

    • @vanci1111
      @vanci1111 Před 8 měsíci

      Thank you more need to speak up...I was living naturally even on greenhouses...my dad freaked out and got me a tiny home...was horrified that it was spray foamed being into natural health this extent. And that he didn't consult me...I like fireplaces..but I tried making it work...I had to move out because I wasn't well in there..when I go in as it's used for storage now the foam smell is very strong which I didn't notice when living in it....have known from day 1 I don't even want it for storage...what to do...I tried telling him but "he spent a lot of money on it" but my health lifestyle is priceless.

  • @effervescence5664
    @effervescence5664 Před rokem +26

    Used spray foam as standard on our builds in the US/Canada for a long time but it's better left for specialists. Open cell is cheaper but requires a larger depth for same insulation value as Closed cell. Closed cell works as an air tight water/air/vapor barrier but open cell doesn't. Both are flammable, both help stiffen the structure to a degree and both if mixed incorrectly can cause smell and sickness during off gassing which arguably is a more immediate risk than covering up the rot.
    In the states it's been around long enough that the benefits are known and it suits the structure type (predominately wood) but back in the UK I wouldn't recommend it. Also roof windows, why the hell aren't UK windows flanged for wooden structures.

    • @hannecatton2179
      @hannecatton2179 Před rokem +8

      Both are flammable ! Why on earth would you install it then ? Here in Denmark the regulations forbid any insulation that is even slightly flammable. The ´go to´ type of insulation is glasswool or rockwool which are 100% non-flammable.

    • @ckm-mkc
      @ckm-mkc Před rokem +5

      @@hannecatton2179 Not nearly as cold in Denmark as in parts of the US - plus, we build mostly with wood, which is also highly flammable. Also, things like metal buildings are hard to insulate in other ways. Finally, the insulation is not exposed, it is always covered with a flame retardant material.

    • @snbscinspections5024
      @snbscinspections5024 Před rokem +2

      In Canada, spray foam must be applied by a certified installer. The Code for this is a bit buried, but it's in, where a standard (CAN/ULC-S705.2) is referenced. The standard (see section four) says that only qualified (certified) installers can do the work. In short, this is not a job for the average Jane or Joe. The logic here is that if it's done in Canada, it ought to be done by someone who won't create a problem. Judging from the video, this is not the case in Britain.

  • @emcbabe
    @emcbabe Před měsícem

    Very interesting. I also think that spraying foam over electrical lines would make it much more difficult to alter or fix electrical problems later on. The electrician would have to cut through foam or remove some foam to get at the lines, rather than cut rolled insulation.

  • @traviscapehart7590
    @traviscapehart7590 Před rokem +4

    They have preformed foam vent inserts that go in before the spray. It allows for a half inch gap between the roof and the insulation. It vents open on the top and the bottom and allows for borescope inspection with the foam in place.

    • @ericstein7950
      @ericstein7950 Před 11 měsíci

      True I am an architect. We only will spray foam in the attic if the continuous 1” baffle from the soffit to the ridge vent. This allows drying of the back side of the roof deck. If any moisture from the house of from outside on the roof. Just use closed cell insulation filled full. It’s the most efficient. (R per inch) You will need like an R-49, so most likely will require furring out the rafters to create thicker rafter space.

  • @larrya2995
    @larrya2995 Před 4 měsíci

    Thanks, you did a complete and clear presentation. This was mostly new information to me as I have not heard of a mtg company being concerned about foam unless it is backed on the other side by plastic and no air/vapor can escape. Today it is 109F or about 43C outside and the air temp in my attic is abt 150F, or 65 C. Moisture vapor does not stand a chance in Texas. I am considering spraying the underside of the roof, it might help.

  • @MrGoblue1131
    @MrGoblue1131 Před rokem +5

    Never heard of spray foam used under the roof like that. We built our house in 04 insulated by spray foam in the walls and it has worked out great. Heating and A/C stays in just fine. Ceilings have that blow in / loose fill insulation that also has been great.

    • @mrbonelesswings1234
      @mrbonelesswings1234 Před rokem

      @@s1iznc1d34 Cellulose almost always has rats and other creatures up in there. The only time I've ever been exposed to bat shit was because of cellulose too. And, there's sometimes trash that can be found in the bags before you even put it in the house. I found an earring with a scorpion inside a bag once. I still got it somewhere in the hopes I'll find the other one one day.

  • @markb7268
    @markb7268 Před rokem +1

    A very fair and balanced explanation of both the pro's and con's

  • @roshi98
    @roshi98 Před rokem +65

    The obsession with "saving through efficiency" is perfectly summed up by the use of spray foam on the underside of the roof structure. Personally, I'm happy to sacrifice a little R-value up here in the Adirondack mountains for peace of mind knowing that my rafters and beams aren't being eaten away by unseen collected moisture which could lead to a huge replacement bill down the road. A cold roof with soffits and insulation on the floor instead of the ceiling is the most cost-effective and nearly equally efficient setup where I live.

    • @MyKharli
      @MyKharli Před rokem +8

      In the 1980`s as a roofer , new building regs meant we could use new super strong (no more clumsy foot holes in the felt) plastic roofing felt , this of course attracted condensation like nothing else and very quickly caused rot . Pretty sure it was all to save a few quid and whoever was lobbied on the building regs team was asleep on the job..or well paid ! It was banned within 2 years as it would literally rain in your loft in certain conditions !!. Stocks were used illegally for ages too. The building trade is shameless with only a few good eggs imo .

    • @luckysevenairammo1217
      @luckysevenairammo1217 Před rokem +7

      Open cell spray foam sprayed directly onto the underside of the roof deck fully enveloping the rafters is 100% fine and hands down the best insulation available. Being open cell, water runs straight through it just as fast as fiberglass giving you immediate notice of an roof leak. It also slowly breathes not allowing condensation buildup provided your roof is not sealed in airtight on the top via membrane, rubber or completely covered with ice and water shield. There is completely nothing to worry about at all. As long as it is sprayed with open cell. The heating/cooling energy savings with foam vs fiberglass or cellulose is way more efficient and can not be beat. Saves big money.

    • @ericholdsworth6611
      @ericholdsworth6611 Před rokem +2

      Built and remolded plenty of houses well into the hundreds, frame to finish and restorations, my favorite. I agree with the spray foam on the rafter. I have never been a fan of it and goes against everything we were told about attic venting. If your ceiling is well insulated and your vents go outside, you should be just fine. If it's a truss roof and you don't go up there then double the layer

    • @luckysevenairammo1217
      @luckysevenairammo1217 Před rokem +7

      @@ericholdsworth6611 I here you, builder for twenty five plus years myself in New England. Initially spray foam went against everything I had been told about "the better a roof breathes, the better roof you have" but as I became familiar with foam tech and have asked hundreds of questions to foam installers and extensively researched it myself. I have learned that spray foam being applied tight to the underside of the roof deck is great way to insulate and is by far the most efficient means of insulating your home. You will then have more attic space and a cleaner attic space with it not being buried by dusty itchy rodent nest insulation, your entire attic will be fully conditioned temp, bug free rodent free mildew/mold free attic space. There can not and will not ever be any condensation against the rafters/trusses or roof sheathing because the foam itself has replaced all of the cold/warm air to cold/warm surface movement, no free air movement equals no condensation period.
      The interior of the attic space below the foam can not form condensation either because it will always be the same ambient temperature as the rest of the space, no temperature differential, no condensation. The only real need with foam applied to the underside of the roof deck is to have some form of small air movement in the attic space to prevent any stale/stagnant air from building up in the space. It is as simple as trimming the bottom of the attic door to 3/4" above the floor or drilling a few 1 1/2" holes or cutting a hole and attaching a grille on the attic panel or pull down stair panel.
      On the exterior side, normal lapped felt paper under the shingles allows enough air movement around the exterior of the sheathing allowing any surface moisture to dissipate and evaporate from solar warming. I also learned that only open cell foam should be applied to the underside of a roof deck because it still allows for a small amount of breathability and air transfer, soffit, hip, and ridge vent/slots can and imho should still be in place and foamed over because they will still alow for a very small amount of air transfer.
      Another often overlooked fact is water can and will pass directly through open cell spray foam instantly warning of a leaky roof where closed cell would hold water without any way of knowing your roof is leaking.
      Open cell is great on the underside of a roof deck and I would highly reccomend it to anyone.

    • @ericholdsworth6611
      @ericholdsworth6611 Před rokem

      @@luckysevenairammo1217 Thanks for that, I to am in New England and this is what I have been told, however is tough because as you know in New England with an older housing stock, those old building breathing properly lasted much longer than the tight wrap we now use. But I agree if you wish to insulate your attic it's by far the best way to go and yes, pest free. Thats a major plus, however I do have issues down the road if a remod happens. I have done work in some areas where a new kitchen happens every 7 years it seems. The money tree neighborhoods of New England There is also the issue when using a complete foam insulation job where the builders skipped the notion of fresh air and the houses became sick houses, like anything else, do your research.

  • @Retiredmco
    @Retiredmco Před rokem +2

    I had my attic and crawl space open cell spray foam. It would be 30 degrees outside and my home inside was 60 without using heat. I love it!

  • @eskippathiki
    @eskippathiki Před rokem +4

    When they did our house, the attic was sprayed foamed directly on to the ceiling drywall and rafters, hence the attic isn't insulated, only the ceiling and walls of the structure. Is working great 11 years in. There is a slight wave in our ceilings but it is unique and it is waves! Likely caused by moisture in the spray foam at application.

  • @alext8828
    @alext8828 Před rokem +2

    A note about moisture. It's not moisture until it condenses. Otherwise, it's humidity. A humid home is a warm home. Reduce the humidity in the air and the house is cooler. So you want humidity in the cold seasons and not in the warm seasons. Luckily, in the warm seasons, you either open a window or put on the ac to take the humidity from the air.

  • @lamberto6405
    @lamberto6405 Před rokem +2

    I used Icynene in south florida and the insulation properties were amazing. I paid $7500 but I absolutely loved it. During construction, in the south florida summer with the house fully closed and NO air conditioning you could walk inside the house and be cool when you walked in. Sure, you would sweat after 20 minutes inside the house but in a home with no spray foam you could not even walk in! It is simple amazing.

  • @douglasthompson2740
    @douglasthompson2740 Před rokem +3

    Seems in the past few years professional installations have been shown in many cases to have shrunk away from the framing members. Closed cell as well of course as open cell (which really is to be avoided at all costs). Also any savings from shipping are way more than compensated for by the high cost of product and installation when using foam. I think the real lesson to be learned here is not to disparage the DIY'er as they can often do as good or better than the professional. Often the installer in rural or small town areas if available at all will not be doing foam full time and the expertise can vary drastically. Not many professional installers 'play with the formula' they just apply whatever is sent them and move on to the next job. If they can get a better price on a batch of foam and up their profit margin most will unquestionably accept the product. Again the point that is made is that any high tech material that is stringent in its application with little or no latitude for error or sloppiness is just not going to work on the real world construction site. Moisture and temperature parameters are going to be violated to get the job done where time is money, would be one example. A poorly trained and or motivated work force is also going to be a problem. There are so many things that effect the quality and performance of a building that it is foolish to add more complications. Narrow application limits should be avoided if at all possible.

  • @elliejake11
    @elliejake11 Před rokem +75

    True honest facts there Roger, a friend of mine actually has a company removing and inspecting this stuff and I’ve occasionally had to go in and construct a Entire new roof due to rot, which 9/10 times the tiles have fouled causing a leak which has gone undetected due to the foam, I’ve also noticed that the elderly seemed to get targeted for this stuff. You and the team keep up the good work 👍💪🏼

    • @dbiwatches1891
      @dbiwatches1891 Před rokem +9

      What a point that is! Any roof defects from slates,tiles,ridges,felt etc etc will most likely go unnoticed due to creating an internal water tight barrier with the use of the almost artight foam application. Surely the only outcome if there was to be a failure is a rotting roof?

    • @pauldavies5655
      @pauldavies5655 Před rokem +8

      100% right --- they target the older / pensioner type person because they do not know any local builders.

    • @luckysevenairammo1217
      @luckysevenairammo1217 Před rokem +6

      Anyone who puts closed cell onto the underside of a roof deck is a clown.. open cell on a roof deck is fine, water goes through it just as fast as fiberglass warning you of a leak just as well.
      Don't knock foam unless it has been improperly installed. The energy it saves is astounding. I heat my 5,000 sf for the same cost as 1,800 sf older houses. It's a no brainer.

    • @pcofranc
      @pcofranc Před rokem +3

      @@luckysevenairammo1217 Valid points but even in my dad's house in CT built in 1850 the installers missed loads of spots. Don't know if it is open/closed cell. Does save heat but maybe only about 25% max due to 3 walls having no insulation. Also, in the past installers would fill the attic with foam! That never made much sense to me. Final thought... the real problem is ALL or NOTHING thinking when it comes to solutions. Why not mask off critical areas for the purpose of leak inspection, access to wires, etc Use foam where it makes sense.

  • @andrewpipitone1572
    @andrewpipitone1572 Před 11 měsíci +1

    I have open cell spay foam which is totally superior to fiberglass insulation. I have vaulted ceilings and vented each space properly. The house is 3000 sqft in total with 3 floors at 1000 per floor. It holds the heat and hold the cold. With all the windows and skylites the air moves well. This insulation was the best thing I ever did in all the years of construction. Mortgage companies just want to extort money in any way they can.

  • @MisterBoy316
    @MisterBoy316 Před rokem

    Very informative, thanks. It's interesting how this stuff is different around the world - I came across this via Matt Risinger's Build channel and gather it's very common in the USA, possibly even the preferred approach. It's a fascinating thing to watch a pro do it. And ludicrous the main reason against it here is insurers/lenders who as you point out don't ever come and look at your roof anyway in many cases, let alone check behind a bit of plasterboard. I'm assuming this stuff is totally non recyclable, non-degradable if you do remove it?

  • @oNeGiaNtLiE
    @oNeGiaNtLiE Před rokem +4

    I would call this a very thoughtful and honest presentation on the spray foam I always thought it to be good for maybe doing the underside of a house. Maybe in a crawl space..(understanding one doesn't loose heat through their floors of course.)

    • @paulortiz2035
      @paulortiz2035 Před rokem

      You don't loose much of your heat through the floor, but who wants a cold floor to walk on?
      I insulted under the floors from the outside and installed radiant floor heat!
      The floors are warm and the heat is even and very SILENT!!! NO DUST BLOWING AROUND, EITHER!
      Radiant is the best warmth for a house.
      No ugly radiators. No noise, nothing blowing on you! Clean, safe, steady!
      Really lovely! For back up I have some electric radiators. Or if I want a bathroom to be really, really warm! The radiators sit in a spare room unless needed. And they work very nicely, too.
      I really dislike hot, forced air heat! Unless it is a 2 speed, air handler with humidity capabilities.

  • @robw1031
    @robw1031 Před 3 měsíci +1

    I live in hot, humid Florida. I built the house myself, and it's very airtight. I have spray foam (walls and roof) and insulated impacted windows and doors. I added an energy recovery unit for outside air, a high efficient two-speed AC, and a hybrid high-efficiency water heater with a hot water return. My electric bill is around $140 cheaper than my neighbors and their house is a little smaller.

  • @albertandersen627
    @albertandersen627 Před rokem +1

    If you put your wires in conduit and your plumbing pex pipe inside a poly pipe they are very easy to change out if you have problems if they are encased in concrete, insulation foam or even the ground. Works best if all fixtures are individually plumbed. You can also put all communication cables inside conduit for easy change out.

  • @seanhealyful
    @seanhealyful Před rokem +4

    As a rule of thumb do you cut the rigid foam for an exact squeeze fit or do you leave an 8/10mm gap for the gun to get a solid squirt in around the borders? Thanks Roger.

  • @joeg9810
    @joeg9810 Před rokem +4

    Excellent video. One other issue with spray foam as I see it if you want / need to run additional wiring in a wall with it you might as well forget it. Just rip off the drywall and remove it.

    • @kenbeiser4443
      @kenbeiser4443 Před 11 měsíci +1

      It is not as hard as some are saying. The wires needs to be 1 1/4 inch from the finish surface but even that is pretty darn easy. If I was remodeling some place I would not consider this to be a big deal. I have a couple to a few decades of experience using SIPs in Montana and I have been able to visit those projects and see what works and what does not. Build tight and ventilate right.

  • @wesbaumguardner8829
    @wesbaumguardner8829 Před rokem +3

    Fiberglass batt insulation is not free of issues, either. It soaks up moisture, is the perfect medium for growing mold after it gets wet, loses its R-value when wet, and can slump down inside the wall cavity making large un-insulated voids that will end up costing you an arm and a leg in energy bills if not discovered for long periods of time.

  • @jackuzi8252
    @jackuzi8252 Před 3 měsíci

    I bought a house that had a sort of sunroom put on as an addition, over a crawlspace. I wanted to convert it into living space by adding a minisplit heat pump, but the floor was cold and drafty. Spraying foam on the underside of the floor solved both problems, keeping it warmer and sealing out all the drafts. I bought a tank of foam spray and it worked very well. You must wear eye protection and have very good ventilation--I had a box fan running on its highest setting blowing in from the entrance of the crawl space the whole time--there's no such thing as too much fresh air.

  • @riboid
    @riboid Před rokem +7

    I have been using spray foam for a 100 years on valves and flanges etc but used it only once in a residential environment. All I would say (through harsh experience), ensure that your substrate, wooden structure is totally 100% dry and moisture free and does not hint of rot/mould or anything. My solum was compromised, thus increased moisture levels in the atmosphere and then by the time I got to it, I had x1 purling and x15 wooden beams to replace in my basement. Cost me thousands to resolve as I had to remove all the contaminated wood, new engineered flooring etc. The foam likely exacerbated the situation but the solum was the primary issue, so not really the foam to blame.
    Another lesson learned - a sore one.

    • @h2wr
      @h2wr Před rokem +2

      You have personally been using spray foam for 100 years?

    • @m0rthaus
      @m0rthaus Před 3 měsíci +1

      @@h2wr No, he's either full of it or a time-traveller.

  • @andyridyard8024
    @andyridyard8024 Před rokem +1

    As always, very clear and cogent arguments for and against. Many thanks, Roger

  • @T.E.P..
    @T.E.P.. Před rokem +58

    This is a very important video and hope this gets many many more views .... I've had a terrible time remodeling with spray foam and it's a disaster for plumbers and electricians and refinishers ...

    • @brendakoldyk1647
      @brendakoldyk1647 Před rokem +9

      Spray lacquer thinner on it it will melt like snow.

    • @johnbrandon6630
      @johnbrandon6630 Před rokem +2

      Lets keep this video up and running. That stuff will destroy your house.

    • @karissamacgregor7449
      @karissamacgregor7449 Před rokem

      What insulation would you recommend then? Everywhere Ive looked always says foam is the best.

    • @majorpwner241
      @majorpwner241 Před rokem +2

      @@brendakoldyk1647 Oof careful with that. I'd be damned scared to release the chemicals in the spray foam.

  • @5TR4NG3_D4Y5_
    @5TR4NG3_D4Y5_ Před rokem +3

    Had my house sprayed a couple years ago. No problem. My utility bill dropped, it's a lot warmer and didn't have to run furnace as much and it's quiet inside 👍

    • @ashtonwoodturnings225
      @ashtonwoodturnings225 Před rokem

      May i ask how long the off gassing took to go, ours was done 18 months ago and can be smelt in some of the bedrooms

    • @5TR4NG3_D4Y5_
      @5TR4NG3_D4Y5_ Před rokem +2

      @@ashtonwoodturnings225 mine doesn't smell anymore, it probably also depends on the climate. I live in Colorado and it's pretty dry here.

    • @blackhawk7r221
      @blackhawk7r221 Před rokem +2

      If you have offgassing, the contractor used the incorrect cheap foam. With the proper foam, any odor should have dissipated after the first hour. Or the water blown formulation that has zero offgassing.

  • @ewetoobblowzdogg8410
    @ewetoobblowzdogg8410 Před rokem +3

    In the humid south of the US, we put the moisture barrier on the outside, under the siding rather than over the studs inside. A popular way to insulate here is called flash & batt. We lightly spray foam to close the air gaps and then fill the cavity with rockwool batts. Very effective

    • @apexscape
      @apexscape Před rokem

      air barrier over exterior sheathing is pretty much the standard now, even in colder climate.

  • @AE-yh7hu
    @AE-yh7hu Před rokem

    Great video - was really interesting ,
    You described how you would fit the insulation yourself.
    Could you please make a video showing this step by step procedure.
    I want to know how it's done right.
    Many thanks

  • @bigjay6743
    @bigjay6743 Před rokem +2

    The only thing bad I've ever heard about the spray form is if the chemicals aren't mixed properly it can leave a nasty smell some people say it smells like rotten fish and some people have had elergic reactions to it.

  • @kirk1618
    @kirk1618 Před rokem +28

    I was a deputy fire chief in my city in South Louisiana (USA). The highest Carbon Monoxide Level issue I had ever come across, was in a renovation house. The house was elevated on piers (about 18", common practice in wet Louisiana), new windows, new doors, spay foam, new sheet rock. Furnace and water heater were not replaced. Fortunately the owners had an alarm system that included a CO detector and the alarm company made contact with the FD. The reading was over 225 ppm on our meter (33 ppm over 8 hours sets an alarm for work environment). Fortunately, no long term effects were had by the occupants. The occupants said "everything was new, had to be a faulty detector". After investigation, it was determined that the renovations were done so well, that a house that was designed, and needed to breath, no longer could. The house was initially built in the mid 1800s. This incident has always stuck in my head, and will never add such measures in a renovation. Just my 2 cents.

    • @bosidabosida
      @bosidabosida Před rokem +8

      You can't build a modern house without modern ventilation. They likely didn't have a functioning HRV or ERV, which is now mandatory in many jurisdictions. Look up passive house standards for air penetration or a couple of Matt Risinger videos.

    • @dave_h_8742
      @dave_h_8742 Před rokem +3

      Needed vent fitting to each room then didn't they

    • @MrToontuber
      @MrToontuber Před rokem

      have it done in summer and ventilate well.

    • @ruyan247
      @ruyan247 Před rokem +3

      A recipe for disaster in timber framed houses! If the CO2 doesn't kill you, the mold will, or if you last long enough the house will collapse on you because of rott.
      My house is 150 years, timber framed typical German construction. I renovated for 5 years, no plastics, foam, glue, concrete or vapor barriers. Wood, clay and hemp all the way.
      It's such a nice comfort level, everyone staying with us is amazed how well they sleep, especially people with allergies!
      If you ever have the chance to stay in a clay house, try it out.

    • @johnhaller5851
      @johnhaller5851 Před rokem +4

      The furnace should have been replaced with a high efficiency model which gets combustion air from the outside, or better yet, a heat pump. Same with water heater. The stove needs a vent to the outside with makeup air, and preferably be electric. An ERV will bring in fresh air while keeping energy efficiency. The dryer also needs makeup air.

  • @frenchfryfarmer436
    @frenchfryfarmer436 Před rokem +3

    In defense of the closed cell. There are some places where it is excellent. We sprayed the crawl space bottom of our floor joists. We had them spray ALL exposed wood (even a thin layer on cheeks and bottom of joists/sill plates) to seal from dirt floor moisture. This saved us doing the laborious encapsulation.... We will always know if there are issues of moisture from above (unlike a roof) .... I should also mention at the same time we did and ABSOLUTE meticulous job of French draining/sealing block from the outside, digging all the way below the footer. Also used 2" foam board from footer all the way up to the sill outside. The exterior block foundation cannot wick from the outside to sill. This killed any moisture migration from the dirt crawl space. I would be leery of doing a roof for ALL of the mentioned reasons.

  • @rodney3891
    @rodney3891 Před rokem +12

    We have closed cell foam insulation in our 2200 sq ft two story home. We have Anderson 400 series window with tinted glass. Our house was designed and built to be air tight. The HVAC contractor studied the plants and in concert with the architect they designed a system that includes fresh air make up system that tempers the incoming air by using the exhaust air. All of the parts and materials were available and none had to be “special” ordered of fabricated. Having worked in the home construction industry for most of my life, I believe that spray foam is the best bang for your buck if you look at the entire house holistically and systems vs individual pieces of the system. We heat with natural gas and have central air. We live in the northeast U.S. and we have never paid over $100 per month for our gas and or electric service. While we paid more to build the home, our ROI is occurring within the first six years of our completed date. Thank you.

    • @travisjazzbo3490
      @travisjazzbo3490 Před rokem +2


    • @bobboscarato1313
      @bobboscarato1313 Před 10 měsíci +1

      Lucky you; my 1500 sq. ft. all electric home runs up to $ 400. per month. Our supplier is Reliant energy!

  • @RFC-3514
    @RFC-3514 Před rokem +1

    3:03 - Presumably you have the impermeable membrane on the _outside_ (I assume that's what you mean by "the other side of the roof". So open cell lets the wood's moisture equalise with the _inside_ of your house through evaporation, which is exactly what you want. If you use closed cell, that's basically like having a second impermeable membrane on the inside, but the outer one will crack / fail first, so any water that gets in will have nowhere to go (water gets in through cracks much faster than it can evaporate back out through the same crack), and will just saturate the wood

  • @prjndigo
    @prjndigo Před rokem +1

    Best main application for spray foam is to run spirals of wire nailed to the rafters over the roof sheeting then foam-cap the whole place and lay on membranes. The problem is that once the foam starts to burn, the house is a goner. It WILL burn.
    Next application for the spray foam is poofing it in bags that compression fit cavities. Sprayfoam doesn't sag when wet like fiber.

  • @kscipkkkk
    @kscipkkkk Před rokem

    The solution to moisture coming through the roof into the attic space is a product called Zip Sheating. The zip system if installed correctly creates a water and air barrier on the outside of the roof, all the joints are sealed with a specially formulated tape that is warranted for 30 years. The roofing and wall product is manufactured with the air and water barrier at the factory during manufacturing. It has been around in the US for about a decade and close/open cell foam can be applied directly to the underside. If your applying a new roof this system is worth a serious look, if your building new, it’s a must have.

  • @GeorgeMcKnight
    @GeorgeMcKnight Před rokem

    I did some 'damp repair jobs last year on a couple of period properties here in Aberdeen, Scotland, one being around 120 years old, granite facing with traditional timber framing, lath and plaster finish on the inside. They had the spray foam pumped into the wall cavities (and the roof), but a couple of years later damp patches appeared in quite a few spots. Turned out the pointing around some of the granite blocks became defective and started letting water in. This wouldn't normally be too much of an issue if the cavity wasn't filled with foam as it would evaporate on the inside, but the foam began to absorb the moisture over time, or cause a bridging affect (carried the moisture through to the inside walls), and damp patches appeared on the internal walls.
    Would I recommend it on an old property like this...no. Would I recommend it on a new build...possibly, but that would depend on it's design, as air still needs to circulate the structure

  • @Spacecookie-
    @Spacecookie- Před rokem +4

    I remember back in the family house, the attic was so cold compared to the rest of the house. It only had insulation between the rafters that made the ceilings of the upper floor. The rest was pretty bare and the whole house could get really cold in winter.

    • @Spacecookie-
      @Spacecookie- Před rokem

      J 2130 It wasn't winter. It's just the UK.

  • @willdehne1
    @willdehne1 Před 4 měsíci

    We live in central Florida. Love to have more insulation against heat. But we have two issues to worry about. 1) moisture, 2) insects. I shudder of the thought of palmetto bug infestation or mold formation behind the insulation. I think I will stay with the trees around my house. They are a nuisance but at least I can see what is going on.
    Thanks for the warning.

  • @codyc4555
    @codyc4555 Před rokem +2

    As someone who has been in the foam insulation industry for 15 years, I see all these problems all the time. I do not even touch remodels if the HVAC is not being adjusted properly to figure for proper ventilation. I love foam, but a house needs to be built for foam. I do not typically like using it for remodels, and where we live remodelers are not typically intelligent enough to understand air tightness and moisture control and most foam companies are just as bad. They just know how to paint walls, cabinetry, and flooring. Spraying foam directly against the roof with close cell to water proof is the most ignorant thing I've seen other companies do. The roof is incredibly difficult to remove like you said. I believe that 70% of the foam insulation companies have no idea what they are doing and do not properly get their guys trained. They rely on equipment sensors to tell them if the foam is correct which is often too late. An applicator should be able to see it on the wall instantly and know. I also believe foam is sprayed half as thick as it should be. I sprayed my personal house to and R-42 in foam which was about 11.5 inches. I can run my house on an ERV for over half the year in Texas. I only kick on my air conditioning in the summers and winters at the extreme points.

  • @jasongemma3109
    @jasongemma3109 Před 11 dny

    I had a customer who had an upscale house which had a fire. The fire could have easily been localized and contained if there were no foam sprayed. The foam retained the heat from the fire throughout the entire 4000 square foot house. Every window blow out from the intense heat and the entire house was destroyed from smoke damage.
    Nice stuff

  • @audibledonor
    @audibledonor Před 5 měsíci +1

    When I decided to tackle a DIY project with spray foam insulation, I had no idea it would become a comedy of errors. As soon as I pressed the trigger, the foam sprayed out with such force that it seemed determined to decorate everything in sight. My attempts to control it turned into a slapstick routine as I struggled to aim and direct the expanding foam, inadvertently covering myself in a foamy mess. The foam seemed to have a mischievous mind of its own, sticking to my clothes, hair, and even my pet, who looked more like a fluffy foam creature than a dog. In the end, I had a well-insulated project and a hilarious memory of my foam-filled escapade that still brings laughter to this day.

  • @HiekerMJ
    @HiekerMJ Před rokem +1

    We had it done (slate roof, good condition 1950s, closed cell) 1996 and sold in 2018 with no problem - and the roof space was great (no 45C in summer, -10C in winter).
    Had the new family home done in 2019 (membrane + concrete tiles, 1980s 'Barret" build, closed cell) done in 2019. No problems since.....the roofers didn't comment / complain when they needed to re-channel the interface into the extension (~1985).
    But then we used proper ventilation (open a window occasionally) and bathroom extractor fans.

  • @harveysmith100
    @harveysmith100 Před rokem +26

    One of your best videos Roger. I never knew about the mortgage problem and a couple of my customers have looked at having it done and asked me what I thought. I can give them a better opinion now.
    I wonder what long term research has been done about rotting timber? Was it just a rogue case which has spooked the mortgage companies.?

    • @ToraKwai
      @ToraKwai Před rokem +4

      we replaced an entire roof because of it, rafters had been trapped and water got in, of 6"x2" rafters there was only about 1"x1" left of actual solid timber in some of the worst ones. to be honest i think the material itself will be fine, it's more the people who out it in, quite a few cowboys going about offering it. had another one recently, older gentleman who we've done a lot of work for, had been convinced and scare mongered into ripping out all his existing insulation and having spray foam put in. a lot of places around my part of the uk are also bitumen roofing felt so any damp that gets in will wreck havoc

    • @harveysmith100
      @harveysmith100 Před rokem +1

      @@ToraKwai Good info Peter.
      Would you say that a modern breathable underfelt would cure the problem?
      It was lucky that the roof you didn't collapse by the sounds of it.

    • @ToraKwai
      @ToraKwai Před rokem +2

      @@harveysmith100 personally from that experience it's put me off spray foam altogether. i would have thought that as long as there was space between the foam and the felt it would help a great deal, and a breathable felt would be ideal i think, yes. but then you're getting back to a 25mm air gap like PIR insulation and as that's just a rule to stick to whatever the circumstance i'd say although it's bulky and labour intensive you know what you're getting by using that, again rockwool is the same, it breathes naturally so there's less built in cause for fault, at least in my view anyway

  • @einarquay
    @einarquay Před 8 měsíci

    Your correct observation about impermeable membranes is the reason I do not place plastic insulation on the exterior of dwellings. Cold bridging also allows condensation to occur within the un insulated gap behind the plasterboard, which leads to mold growth. Now do a flat roof structure.

  • @michaelbelshaysr4525
    @michaelbelshaysr4525 Před rokem

    The other thing it helps with are ants roaches etc. as it doesn’t allow them space to get in. I have seen those bathroom fans vent to the outside as well and A/C would remove the humidity first before cooling the house. Yes it would mean you would have to run the a/c all the time or at worse have a whole house dehumidifier placed on the venting to remove the humidity from the house. I believe most of those have settings for what percentage you want. Could a plastic barrier be placed between the roof and joists. I know this would be for new houses or those with total roof replacement with a channel to le humidity to escape outside?

  • @hebgilo1294
    @hebgilo1294 Před 11 měsíci +3

    I used closed cell in my exterior walls, then batt behind it. Low utility bills. 28 years later still no issues. I'll use it again in my next house.

  • @bikerbobcat
    @bikerbobcat Před rokem

    HVAC guy in the US and I spend a lot of time in sometimes very tight attics/lofts that have spray foam. One more thing to consider is if your air handler/furnace is up there, the spray foam guys need to be real careful about making sure they prep/cover the HVAC unit carefully and don't spray and entomb anything I need access to. Often service disconnects are attached to rafters and get sprayed shut- then I have to destroy the insulation to dig it out. Also if you have ducts or machinery tight against the rafters they may not spray behind it and lay thin or entirely miss large areas. I didn't consider the acoustic changes! Good video, boss.

  • @rogerhuber3133
    @rogerhuber3133 Před rokem +1

    Very important information and a lot to think about. I have never heard anything about mortgage companies refusing a mortgage because of the foam. Many things to think about building or repairing a home. Thanks!

  • @dennisphoenix1
    @dennisphoenix1 Před rokem +23

    You need a heat recovery extractor unit . This brings in outside air and warms it slightly with the extracted air

    • @davewoolcock8904
      @davewoolcock8904 Před rokem

      how much are they?

    • @davideyres955
      @davideyres955 Před rokem +2

      @@davewoolcock8904 they aren’t cheap. It’s not so much the units but you need to feed the air into each room via ducting so retro fit is quite alot of money.
      You also need to calculate the air changes per hour and get building control approval I believe.

    • @jasonantigua6825
      @jasonantigua6825 Před rokem

      @@davideyres955 Sounds quite involved big fella?

    • @xxwookey
      @xxwookey Před rokem

      @@davewoolcock8904 I got one on ebay for £500 (which was about half-price), then used about £700 of (spiral galv) pipe and tape and sealant and fittings to do the job (3-bed detached house) with no exposed piping. Took about 9 days over one Xmas to do the pipes, which was a faff. It's a little more expensive, but _much_ quicker/easier to use ubbink flexible pipe and manifolds. It also makes the air-volume sums much simpler ('one pipe or two'). If you pay a professional to install it's still several grand.

  • @SubWaySpiderman
    @SubWaySpiderman Před rokem +1

    Potentially another reason UK mortgage companies might not like spray foam is the flammability. Compared to other insulations it burns pretty quickly and very hot.

  • @sustainf
    @sustainf Před rokem +1

    Nice video! Thanks. Definitely a renovation nightmare. Go with rock wool insulation everyday.

  • @nachochitiu6953
    @nachochitiu6953 Před 8 dny

    Clear pros and cons. Great advice, helpful to make informed decisions.

  • @everettplummer9725
    @everettplummer9725 Před rokem +1

    Use to use two part foam, at a fiberglass company. We had three options on the second part. Each one was of a different density. A built-in boat cooler would have one density for thermodynamics, while a sailboard would need strength and lightness.

  • @woodenseagull1899
    @woodenseagull1899 Před rokem +12

    Roger. Totally agree with you. I have a letter in the "professional Builder" February 2020 copy which prompted a discussion that generated support to your conclusion. As a lifetime Carpenter & Joiner I am amazed that people fall for this concept. Fire could be a problem with over heated cables. Electricians I know are not happy with tightly packed insulation, which, even to a non-electrician is blindingly obvious! Another topic Roger you may like to discuss:, the obsession with washing roofs. I won't spoil your thunder!!!

    • @soundslight7754
      @soundslight7754 Před rokem +1

      @johnthebrexiter People wash their roofs? Did I get you right? I've never seen this but washing roof for what purpose? Doesn't it rain in your area? I have tried to wash down moss a few times with jetwash while cleaning the guttering - just to stay on top of it, but to no avail! :)

    • @foppo100
      @foppo100 Před rokem +2

      Some people wash their plants in the UK Keeps them shiny.

    • @billwilson3609
      @billwilson3609 Před rokem +2

      @@soundslight7754 An easier way to wash roofs is to apply a solution of copper sulfate to the roofing then wait for the rain to rinse off the dead moss, lichens, etc.

    • @soundslight7754
      @soundslight7754 Před rokem

      @@billwilson3609 I'll tremember, thanks Bill

  • @skfalpink123
    @skfalpink123 Před rokem +18

    Can you imagine trying to trace back a dry-rot outbreak in a house where that had been fitted? The mess would be the stuff of nightmares!

  • @mrprimenumbers6448
    @mrprimenumbers6448 Před 3 měsíci

    Thank you for finally explaining that. I first heard about this and could not find a clear reasoning for why the banks would have a problem with a more energy efficient structure.

  • @marusholilac
    @marusholilac Před rokem

    ADVANAGE: INSECT BARRIER. I had closed-cell spray foam installed in an outbuilding with board and batten walls. I knew that as the boards shrank and warped, ants and other insects would enter but with the foam I have no insects entering through that path, have a water barrier and a much sturdier building. I covered my insulation with cedar paneling. In the US, it must be covered in a living area, but that's not required elsewhere. I did notice it is not UV resistant as evidenced by the green color's fading to white. Whether this is just the dye deteriorating or the product itself I don't know.

  • @calvinbasque8150
    @calvinbasque8150 Před rokem +1

    very well explained video. thats why you hire the right guys who know what they are doing. been doing it for 16 years and glad i took all the courses and have all my tickets because you can have someone destroy your home if not done properly..... dont cheap out guys

  • @crhu319
    @crhu319 Před rokem

    Best use of spray foam is to glue around the edges of rigid foam then slap it in place to make a rigid bond with the wood. If there's a problem you can easily cut the block out with a knife, it's not glued/foamed on the back (so it doesn't push out). Moisture may collect there but not against the wood necessarily so it has time to get out.

    • @sroberts605
      @sroberts605 Před 6 měsíci

      That sounds like an excellent solution - wonder if it's done much?

  • @deeptriton
    @deeptriton Před rokem

    Had a “nontoxic” closed cell foam installed about 6 years ago. I traced the USA SDS sheet to the patent holder which did not list ingredients. For 2 weeks after install the house air quality was so toxic we moved out. After week 3 we moved back in and no odor since. Closed cell product shrank 5% a year later. All in all it was worth it.

  • @peteolesen265
    @peteolesen265 Před rokem +26

    My in-laws did icynene in their walls during a major remodeling about 10 years ago. They did in only in part of the house that had the drywall exposed. It turned out great. There is tremendous difference in comfort between the new and old. They wished they had done more of the house. If you have water entering the structure, foam won’t fix that. You are right you want to get qualified professionals to do this. Do your due diligence and check their past jobs. Done right, this is great.

    • @MikeJones-rk1un
      @MikeJones-rk1un Před rokem +3

      Cellulose is cheaper and much safer.

    • @beatch42
      @beatch42 Před rokem

      Fiberglass dense pack is better than cellulose, unless you live in the midwest

    • @MikeJones-rk1un
      @MikeJones-rk1un Před rokem

      @@beatch42 I wouldn't want fiberglass anywhere near my house where me and my family breathe the air.

  • @richardlewis5316
    @richardlewis5316 Před 11 dny

    I once had a house with a graduated tile roof so considered using spray foam to make sure the tiles never moved. But I decided against it thank goodness as that was often the first question asked by potential buyers. I simply put a very deep thickness of insulation on the floor of the loft as it was never used for storage.

  • @tapduncan
    @tapduncan Před 11 měsíci

    I had the closed cell spray foam, but I used Double Bubble wrap on the ceiling and it is perfect,closed cell is the best,bugs won't eat it either, it was about a half inch thick